tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31292220869335138662024-02-18T19:41:03.365-08:00noriko nakagawamichelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.comBlogger85125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-25641624850513217252009-12-07T21:26:00.000-08:002009-12-10T08:32:27.362-08:00making the most of the wintery weather<span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: trebuchet ms;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFjGGQVNm6Dk-fcggL2l9eCwYz1HtDivhlxz0PCH2ST3pPUmAzlGN04YOGfbEMlfF3EZr7lGOFGXc0t2IOZBs-iEST7-tbu8l7l7WrmDDdJKFcp6jiGG_4H6LSDNe0BohX0h5VLLD3bDM/s1600-h/iron_mt+027.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFjGGQVNm6Dk-fcggL2l9eCwYz1HtDivhlxz0PCH2ST3pPUmAzlGN04YOGfbEMlfF3EZr7lGOFGXc0t2IOZBs-iEST7-tbu8l7l7WrmDDdJKFcp6jiGG_4H6LSDNe0BohX0h5VLLD3bDM/s200/iron_mt+027.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5412733183869745938" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >For the second weekend in a row frigid weather had squashed my climbing plans. My choices were limited. The trail situation is still somewhat grim with the ongoing fire closures, and I had already done Mt Wilson after returning home early from T-day break on the E Side. I combed summitpost for something suitable punishing. My coworker, Dominic, who had recommended Cactus to Clouds, had also mentioned <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150975/iron-mountain-1.html" target="blank">Iron Mountain</a>. It had a respectable 7200 ft of elevation gain over 14 miles and was within an hour drive from home, so it seemed like a good option. Jascha</span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" > was once again kind enough to let me talk him into going. </span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" > </span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >The NOAA weather report predicted highs in the 40s at elevation with wind gusts up to 23 miles an hour. I figured we could turn around if it got too nasty.<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: trebuchet ms;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAl_gER7J1zRK5s8Mhit1gcUY6iAeRqu5FFNzUkHm7rP6JUfCLpI1eNaidtu39_HVxUe-ak_It_zZGrWT7khUkRIUjakrIJN6HCTN4VEspy2liwpWju6pqHM7nsTrNYSSCz_8E6dnZZWE/s1600-h/iron_mt+011.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAl_gER7J1zRK5s8Mhit1gcUY6iAeRqu5FFNzUkHm7rP6JUfCLpI1eNaidtu39_HVxUe-ak_It_zZGrWT7khUkRIUjakrIJN6HCTN4VEspy2liwpWju6pqHM7nsTrNYSSCz_8E6dnZZWE/s200/iron_mt+011.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5412744763100147122" border="0" /></a><br /></span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >We left my apartment just befor</span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >e 8 am with the objective of finishing </span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >the hike before the big storm rolled in. </span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >We set off from the Heaton Flats trailhead just after 9 am. My original plan was to do the <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/384585/southwest-ridge-from-allison-mine.html" target="blank">SW Ridge </a>from Allison Mine. There were two approaches to Allison Mine; I chose the one from Heaton Flats trail. The </span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >second option up Allison Gulch, the one with multiple river crossings, seemed a poor choice this time of year. The well maintained trail climbed gradually through a wooded canyon to a saddle just before the Sheep Mountain Wilderness Boundary before cresting the ridge it would follow for many miles. On the ridge we passed a rustic helicopter l</span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >anding pad, a small clearing with 3 reflectors glued onto the bordering rocks. My topo map showed the trail ending at Heaton Saddle, the point at which we </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: trebuchet ms;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJicVmNvSG4SIz8mtjimqlVKIHeYes1XCtbeT7KxnG6PcOg-Op1CQb8YL0nL5rXhKLo0Uj4N_HHAmvaxjpD_syqwZoGuOdPDOnSRoLj72qjnrHeEGtssrW6dSuQ9NduZRMjHAQ4FKXkOE/s1600-h/iron_mt+009.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJicVmNvSG4SIz8mtjimqlVKIHeYes1XCtbeT7KxnG6PcOg-Op1CQb8YL0nL5rXhKLo0Uj4N_HHAmvaxjpD_syqwZoGuOdPDOnSRoLj72qjnrHeEGtssrW6dSuQ9NduZRMjHAQ4FKXkOE/s200/iron_mt+009.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5412748346645235698" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >were supposed to catch the faint trail to Allison Mine.<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >By now Jascha's pants were soaked from the underbrush. I had managed to grab</span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" > a pair of North Face soft shell pants that I happily discovered shed water. </span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >At Heaton Saddle I saw only the faint hint of a possible side trail on the slope to our left. The trail leading up the south ridge was well worn and seemed far more appealing that the bushwhack over to the mine. After the saddle the trail steepened significantly and was clearly "maintained" only by foot traffic. We stopped for a snack break and it rapidly </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: trebuchet ms;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhoTGaz7L5UXP_4ncGp2XoR3rMnxk5MqWLJ7lJUWeLzec96d8-nmAZygbJACc-9qWunEpTH6CQaZVFfPpMwoeThezcVV-ldBngYvo3KmNNSVWpldqRkmsGI0twFplqPrCu-bOmNw39NQ/s1600-h/iron_mt+031.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhoTGaz7L5UXP_4ncGp2XoR3rMnxk5MqWLJ7lJUWeLzec96d8-nmAZygbJACc-9qWunEpTH6CQaZVFfPpMwoeThezcVV-ldBngYvo3KmNNSVWpldqRkmsGI0twFplqPrCu-bOmNw39NQ/s200/iron_mt+031.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5412752834068991218" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >became clear how cold it was. We saw the coniferous trees of the day and </span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >admired the droplets of ice hanging from </span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >the needles.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >As we climbed higher, the grade became more relentless, similar to the trails in Glendale's Brand Park. The signs of high winds were evident in the horizontal ice crystals that formed on the pine trees. By now mist blanketed the surrounding hills and we crested each hill only to find ourselves at another false summit. As we neared the true summit we cleared the fog bank and found ourselves under lovely blue skies. Before </span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >long we reached the top, marked by a lone ammunition box. It had taken us ~4:10, not superb but not too shabby. As with every trip to the San Gabriels I felt fortunate to have this rugged terrain in my backyard.<br /><br />With the predicted late afternoon rain/snow showers we did not linger long on the summit. The steep, </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: trebuchet ms;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFm7GjCyxfyRJsbuVOYOtwJUI0_2gBgVjv3SRfRtsEy_dQjMVPvgy8PMExPA3NP38BfcWhY7XVIDvuqy0qPOdHNGHw5bn7M1QES-udZblVhXckobJSF_s5w5dZr6iswDQXBWGs4lTw9Rg/s1600-h/iron_mt+039.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFm7GjCyxfyRJsbuVOYOtwJUI0_2gBgVjv3SRfRtsEy_dQjMVPvgy8PMExPA3NP38BfcWhY7XVIDvuqy0qPOdHNGHw5bn7M1QES-udZblVhXckobJSF_s5w5dZr6iswDQXBWGs4lTw9Rg/s200/iron_mt+039.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5413640697957934834" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >eroded trail made the going a tad slow on the upper section of the descent. The trail gains an additional 600 feet on the return, and it was nice to get an occasional uphill break. Finally back on the maintained trail we picked up the pace. We were lucky to catch a glimpse of a huge great horned owl perched atop a dead yucca flower stalk. The weather held out for the remainder of the hike and we clocked in at the trailhead for a total time of 7:30.<br /></span><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" ><br /><br /></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-65422378895510549452009-11-22T12:53:00.000-08:002009-11-22T13:04:34.039-08:00unfinished business: cactus to clouds to cactus<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsUxM8_7Xm6AXiqLV3FpNxrPxXEcwwxJ2WsrlCdLa-nB_DkezjYvpcHHde1jBE_bmSw1PxfzGEMXE4YZmr0uI6tnR6lcsu_evw_jZVBx5ee5Ux17WTsO7PSrmueOZV6sLTK-UanN3nhSs/s1600/c2c2c+009.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsUxM8_7Xm6AXiqLV3FpNxrPxXEcwwxJ2WsrlCdLa-nB_DkezjYvpcHHde1jBE_bmSw1PxfzGEMXE4YZmr0uI6tnR6lcsu_evw_jZVBx5ee5Ux17WTsO7PSrmueOZV6sLTK-UanN3nhSs/s200/c2c2c+009.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407034396299706194" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">As is typical for me I couldn’t stop fixating on returning to complete the full Cactus to Clouds out-and-back that I had attempted several weeks prior. A slightly late start and Jascha’s injuries led me to shorten my original plans to a Cactus to tram plateau out-and-back. As the target day (14 Nov) approached I saw a cold front approaching and I did not want to be up at 10,000 feet with highs in the 40s. I decided to postpone my trip until the following Tuesday when temps were predicted to warm up again. It had taken me 8:40 for my abbreviated out </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">and back, so I was hoping to do the whole thing in under 13 hours.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />I headed down to Palm Springs the night before and hoped that my intermittent insomnia would subside for at least one night. With 50 km and 10,000+ ft of gain ahead of me I </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNDnD9gVUMXsqj07MwdXzvOw64E9Mbemy5zjVtkaM3SK0p189Jfs0pnfhS4ZZ8eU2eprgX_gFSRe2xmLFWLnusXrZ9UBhhIsE5Fa6EZdFYYV-XwZn09hZYcXpngTi-O-H5fvvvbKGpSv4/s1600/c2c2c+007.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNDnD9gVUMXsqj07MwdXzvOw64E9Mbemy5zjVtkaM3SK0p189Jfs0pnfhS4ZZ8eU2eprgX_gFSRe2xmLFWLnusXrZ9UBhhIsE5Fa6EZdFYYV-XwZn09hZYcXpngTi-O-H5fvvvbKGpSv4/s200/c2c2c+007.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407034590970222194" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">needed the sleep. It did not, and </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">I drug myself out of bed at 5:15 am with only a few hours of restless sleep. I arrived at the Museum trailhead just after 6 am with enough light to keep my headlamp in my pack. I borrowed Jascha’s GPS but I suspected that I wouldn’t need it, having just done the Skyline Ridge Route portion in both directions a few weeks prior.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> </span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpZoqI32ekH22kqYKmRMm3ZG871jJY8cS4608yhoflOEUENH0NKe31H_tvvLYhFq62YUXr8HqCdp3vhWQ0OvGRDUKr9HuoiqdZ-nF7Cyu0iKPHTGBIsFj4k5uhr6rlgRFHQuntT2qH4uA/s1600/c2c2c+022.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpZoqI32ekH22kqYKmRMm3ZG871jJY8cS4608yhoflOEUENH0NKe31H_tvvLYhFq62YUXr8HqCdp3vhWQ0OvGRDUKr9HuoiqdZ-nF7Cyu0iKPHTGBIsFj4k5uhr6rlgRFHQuntT2qH4uA/s200/c2c2c+022.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407034755281031810" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">The temperatures were mild and I made good time to the familiar landmarks: the picnic tables, the big horn sheep </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">cl</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">osure sign, the first glimpse of Coffman’s Crag, and the flat rock. I took mental notes on the places where the trail swung far from the ridge proper so I could ensure I was on track during the dark descent. As before I was glad the striking scenery was there to distract me from the steady grind. If I kept this pace I knew I could make the tram area in 4:30. Unfortunately, my left TFL and calves were screaming and I slowed on the grueling upper section. My time was almost </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0rg8k3JR_Taj4mG1hhOQcZ89eJRki-9y7J9CUaQy9_LHIdbbpsKOpok7dTiY2fCsRh6J6-4J9pMPmLhNgKaHKaQ44ApnXBVM5mhUho7sdtULZhq963360lh6XRM9JcFOpDb776JuyHc/s1600/c2c2c+025.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0rg8k3JR_Taj4mG1hhOQcZ89eJRki-9y7J9CUaQy9_LHIdbbpsKOpok7dTiY2fCsRh6J6-4J9pMPmLhNgKaHKaQ44ApnXBVM5mhUho7sdtULZhq963360lh6XRM9JcFOpDb776JuyHc/s200/c2c2c+025.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407035066516195410" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">exactly the same as before, 4:53.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">I made a beeline for the Long Valley ranger station for my self-service permit. Having a copy of the San Jacinto park <a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.parks.ca.gov/pages/636/files/MtSanJacintoSPmap.pdf" target="blank">map</a> was helpful, as there </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">was no sign coming off of Skyline Route directing you to the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">ranger station and not all of the trail junctions mention San Jacinto Peak. The fresh looking tourons were coming off the tramway, oblivious that they were blocking off the entire trail perhaps due to altitude stupor. Although my legs would appreciate the gentler grade for the next 11 miles, I knew this would be the mental crux for me as I am </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">not fond of flat, meandering trails. </span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />The route to the summit was slow going and I was not pleased with the </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjz-8xQCrFzrA4WGQ9vkdmn6uokezqHxlv0SKWLNLVYq8SgEF2CoV_jMKUVKZg5AlGz7wDxOCXh1x3z71Tchh8KEbK_m1TWxKPylcea8-TFAHcLq0xaLLkh9Dzlf4SbOnVN-w_I_Lc2eA/s1600/c2c2c+033.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjz-8xQCrFzrA4WGQ9vkdmn6uokezqHxlv0SKWLNLVYq8SgEF2CoV_jMKUVKZg5AlGz7wDxOCXh1x3z71Tchh8KEbK_m1TWxKPylcea8-TFAHcLq0xaLLkh9Dzlf4SbOnVN-w_I_Lc2eA/s200/c2c2c+033.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407035244917317554" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">long shallow switchbacks. On the final portion I must have passed under the summit at least three times barely gaining any elevation. Finally I hit the talus pile that sits atop the unremarkable summit. I took my requisite summit photo, refilled my hydration bladder, and headed back down. I ran ~2 miles of the descent, not wanting to aggravate my chronic TFL issues before the brutal descent. I reached the top of the Skyline Route just after 3 pm. I knew I had at least 3 hours of technical descent in store, but if I kept the same pace as my previous attempt I could make 13 hours.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br /></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">The sun was setting quickly and by 3:30 the shadow of the range extended far out into the surrounding valley. I hurried down the trail to get in as much distance as possible before </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh86irpc6ArWsGVrNXkN8w-6U2dTASyeggcBNFXNM4eJoapZ8-_qsskhUqlIQ2NNmiIENU7kzQlkdVNQ6DAjnL6-U7qHEN_CCNQpajlwwNpV__iFmkOn4AvnLk8b29N2cUN0T6JlhaldXM/s1600/c2c2c+041.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh86irpc6ArWsGVrNXkN8w-6U2dTASyeggcBNFXNM4eJoapZ8-_qsskhUqlIQ2NNmiIENU7kzQlkdVNQ6DAjnL6-U7qHEN_CCNQpajlwwNpV__iFmkOn4AvnLk8b29N2cUN0T6JlhaldXM/s200/c2c2c+041.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407035493270559042" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">darkness fell. My ascent </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">homework paid off and I wasn’t caught off-guard this time when the trail made significant diversions from the ridgeline. I was feeling surprisingly </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">good and was able to run some of the rolling terrain. At 5:15 I was forced to extract my light. Shortly thereafter I had a close encounter with a thorn bush, which left me with two nice scratches on my face. </span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />After what seemed like ages I finally passed the big horn </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFXLya2emzb4cqY1KxMckJhxYsmQ73-Hy7K7ZsmcV1pcaKKcOSUgmkxbL22f5VMTuWRD1xqsUGJzl-aDGLARRvvjkbtLbTKRMrRO5vVvXsbEFvXQxl9Eeqmjemb4kloIggAhDi2NRHt7M/s1600/c2c2c+046.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFXLya2emzb4cqY1KxMckJhxYsmQ73-Hy7K7ZsmcV1pcaKKcOSUgmkxbL22f5VMTuWRD1xqsUGJzl-aDGLARRvvjkbtLbTKRMrRO5vVvXsbEFvXQxl9Eeqmjemb4kloIggAhDi2NRHt7M/s200/c2c2c+046.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407035710008132178" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">sheep closure sign. I knew the picnic tables (and trailhead) were not far below. The trail below the picnic tables is the most technical and a particularly punishing finish to the long day. I checked my watch and I was on track for a sub 13 hour finish as long as nothing bad happened. At 6:47 pm I reached the trailhead, 12 hours and 45 minutes after I had started. I hobbled across the art museum parking lot, which was filled with valets and fancy cars for what appeared to be a museum benefit, feeling grimy, worked and completely satisfied.</span></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-22278734029985750872009-11-22T09:40:00.000-08:002009-11-22T13:05:20.209-08:00solar musings<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgQPbLzgnceON4LDLpsEcn5Z3NUD3xQqHXzYqeYU_Dr1BGhZMbSVV-T76xfXUutNKQNqwEckiTjJRWPnKCEU0SPqs9y_n7iePzYornKwD6VzBfWveAjXOLSz2CJNKrULMx_dfsbswnGro/s1600/beulah_sunflower+011.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgQPbLzgnceON4LDLpsEcn5Z3NUD3xQqHXzYqeYU_Dr1BGhZMbSVV-T76xfXUutNKQNqwEckiTjJRWPnKCEU0SPqs9y_n7iePzYornKwD6VzBfWveAjXOLSz2CJNKrULMx_dfsbswnGro/s200/beulah_sunflower+011.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406985136723052850" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">My mom and stepdad were on their way back to WA from southern UT, so Jascha and I agreed to meet them for dinner in Vegas. We used the opportunity to spend the day checking out another of </span><a style="font-family: trebuchet ms;" href="http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=19503" target="blank">Dow’s</a><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> fine recommended link-ups, </span><a style="font-family: trebuchet ms;" href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/387139/sunflower-5-9-8-pitches.html" target="blank">Beulah’s Book to Sunflower</a><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> (5.9). The route proper ascends ~1400 ft over 8 pitches on Solar Slab Wall, a perfect November destination with its sunny southern exposure. My only reservation was that much of the route was on the softer white sandstone, not exactly my ideal rock with its slopey eroded holds. </span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />With the dwindling daylight hours I woke us up at 5:30 am. I did not want to have to deal with stuck ropes on the rappel in the dark. We arrived at the Oak Creek parking lot around 7ish and were on the trail by 7:30. We had a </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">small shrubby detour getting to the base of Beulah’s Book, but it gave the party</span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcTQUON9WqBw0Z0nfXGHHVMF2Gn6CHAEoERWAt7vZyYTMOXH9bbdGU4NzJw2Rfzxxm3A_ODMLA4Le73dPmz_WgPQmdD2lMkgbU33R49eb59lq6OT0vfqUmof-WIF02TiQrFPdYndkMnVU/s1600/beulah_sunflower+001_ann.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcTQUON9WqBw0Z0nfXGHHVMF2Gn6CHAEoERWAt7vZyYTMOXH9bbdGU4NzJw2Rfzxxm3A_ODMLA4Le73dPmz_WgPQmdD2lMkgbU33R49eb59lq6OT0vfqUmof-WIF02TiQrFPdYndkMnVU/s200/beulah_sunflower+001_ann.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406985355853580722" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> in front time to get up to the second belay.<br /></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">My plan was to take the arête variation on pitch 2 to a</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">void both the bomb bay chimney and having to </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">haul up a #4 cam. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">The first pitch was uneventful, a 5.6 </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">dihedral to face. As I got closer to the belay I could see my first major </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">obstacle above the arete, the slanting, lieback dihedral from which the route gets its name. It looked strenuous, off-balance and very parallel. As usual I had skimped on the gear to save weight, ignoring the recommendation for 2 sets of </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">cams in the 0.4” to 3” </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3VsmRcB6pZhUoPtxu85kf5o4WBd_2obFyyG3AYz8VaFlQls__r0EWHr0SnyW1eyKnz75G3G-GlX5zh3C4P7_f124-7UioE_4H9FlpxAkITgj2TwX1Q0-_oIf26OyWzEZLIY3Ou_L1nwE/s1600/beulah_sunflower+008.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3VsmRcB6pZhUoPtxu85kf5o4WBd_2obFyyG3AYz8VaFlQls__r0EWHr0SnyW1eyKnz75G3G-GlX5zh3C4P7_f124-7UioE_4H9FlpxAkITgj2TwX1Q0-_oIf26OyWzEZLIY3Ou_L1nwE/s200/beulah_sunflower+008.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406985743138502642" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">range. I belayed Jascha up. </span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br /></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">The bolted arête variation started off with fun thin face holds then turned onto the arête </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">before rejoining the main route at the top of the chimney. I paused below the dihedral for a </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">while trying to figure out my best strategy with my limited </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">gear supply. Fortunately, there were decent face holds and I was able to sling a horn before moving left toward the crack. After 2 cams (and some grunting) I was through the first 5.9 crux. Jascha cruised the lieback and we were soon on to pitch 3, </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">which was run out but easy.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Before long we were at the base of upper Solar Slab wall. The party ahead of us was two pitches up Solar Slab. We took a snack break and I tried to get psyched about leading 5.9 trad on crappy white </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1cXOyOmt3sKhp0if2khysrIcQvLh6TZyqIe60UybUYWpP4Q4w6uxw7808ZVaiBm5cKgDGp_4-3nkzkF2izrc8ODL-oxpO0bliMIwLkWcUhh0zcKnu4qjOWPzn8rg4FFLe1d7yJviZ038/s1600/beulah_sunflower+009.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1cXOyOmt3sKhp0if2khysrIcQvLh6TZyqIe60UybUYWpP4Q4w6uxw7808ZVaiBm5cKgDGp_4-3nkzkF2izrc8ODL-oxpO0bliMIwLkWcUhh0zcKnu4qjOWPzn8rg4FFLe1d7yJviZ038/s200/beulah_sunflower+009.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406986044842233410" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">sandstone. We scrambled up the fourth class slabs to the varnished corner that </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">marks the start of Sunflower. The varnished section was slick, but fortunately there were plenty of other holds available. I arrived at</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> the first belay ledge that is shared with Solar Slab and belayed Jascha up. </span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">The crux pitch looked innocuous from below, but I knew better. I headed up the curving hand crack which soon turned into tenuous hand </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">jams with se</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">emingly insecure friction holds for feet (I admit that the friction was far better than I anticipated). I was happy that secure gear placements popped up just when I needed them. The scary part behind me, I soon arrived at the belay ledge and waited for </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOaiLXbkSBCXsqIOsZXIaUKi5wcbnvdekhS8VYglLQUPzvIdy-_1HMJMhQisRphUrF5i9yHnks8nhsU0fdO791Hvi0pDPOKxl-SEXe1x7guFKRofKWTNFeAkGVGeDuxko3QhRNAjxbpDQ/s1600/beulah_sunflower+028.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOaiLXbkSBCXsqIOsZXIaUKi5wcbnvdekhS8VYglLQUPzvIdy-_1HMJMhQisRphUrF5i9yHnks8nhsU0fdO791Hvi0pDPOKxl-SEXe1x7guFKRofKWTNFeAkGVGeDuxko3QhRNAjxbpDQ/s200/beulah_sunflower+028.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406986385198864898" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Jascha to join me.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />Dow’s description was right on for pitch 6. I followed the 5.8 corner to </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">face, then angled up and left to the bolted belay. Pitch 7 was a bolted slab pitch on somewhat hollow holds. To stay in the 5.9 range the route meandered right and then left of the bolt line. I had a difficult time </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">recognizing “the pod” mentioned in the climbing descriptions so I ended up running out the rope, which I figured would work out to our advantage on the long final pitch. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />After Jascha arrived I started up pitch 8 which heads up toward a roof then traverses up and left before reaching it. From here the route diagonals significantly leftward to join up with the top of Solar </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_sfxhDyBPUCWIz5OILLpfpUmF1H1b4sPWbraOxnRLY6-hJ4GOg5KZ64vxU7tgDn6KPeM9ORAeqXlorYAy2x3yxY7rczlqOrlcavv5TposQ3fpbrwLdSeXp4Mif_sfMFtKhZ28QPY6o8c/s1600/beulah_sunflower+035.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_sfxhDyBPUCWIz5OILLpfpUmF1H1b4sPWbraOxnRLY6-hJ4GOg5KZ64vxU7tgDn6KPeM9ORAeqXlorYAy2x3yxY7rczlqOrlcavv5TposQ3fpbrwLdSeXp4Mif_sfMFtKhZ28QPY6o8c/s200/beulah_sunflower+035.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406986772247595730" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Slab. Because it’s low angle you have to guess the exact trajectory, but because it’s easy terrain you don’t have to worry too much about </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">route finding errors. With the low angled slab, the rope drag was </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">significant and I was glad we were almost done with the technical part. Jascha was happy to be off the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">hanging belay and was soon at the final anchor.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />It was a little after 3 pm and we contemplated our descent options. I had read that the quickest option was to rap Solar Slab (4 double rope raps), then downclimb (or rap, 6 single rope raps) Solar Slab Gully. With the rope eating cracks and clingy edges typical of Red Rocks I found it hard to believe that this was a faster option that the 2 single raps required for the Black Orpheus descent even though I knew </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaBvcQ_hHN9HeQcbeWfPXV-Zslgy31exdNCiWUJf_97EUbMFmG6Zhx_7yY9-M1dnxKUdsWtL0pHg4alMbBBDpCGo0DGoZIRLlLA4zjYPRvl_WZIzfotT_v0ZbLKmp7vVGFre6q-xnZ0m8/s1600/beulah_sunflower+038.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaBvcQ_hHN9HeQcbeWfPXV-Zslgy31exdNCiWUJf_97EUbMFmG6Zhx_7yY9-M1dnxKUdsWtL0pHg4alMbBBDpCGo0DGoZIRLlLA4zjYPRvl_WZIzfotT_v0ZbLKmp7vVGFre6q-xnZ0m8/s200/beulah_sunflower+038.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406987016603584690" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">we had several hundred feet of </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">elevation gain to access the rap stations plus a longish walk-off. The Black Orpheus descent it was.<br /></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">We had climbed Black Orpheus earlier in the year, and I posted an annotated descent <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/156330/the-black-orpheus.html" target="blank">description</a> on summitpost, so the details were still fresh in my mind. </span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">The Solar Slab walk-off heads right initially then left to </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">gain the huge ledge system below the summit. We found the cairns that lead left down the gully and to the first rap station. We didn’t bother with the second rope, but instead angled climber’s left to the intermediate ledge and rap station. One </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">more rap and we were in Painted Bowl. We cruised down the slabs and finally down the slick slab into the canyon floor. I had </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB29DuDAOcdsqd43MnNZ1sYOPkHG289-9KKMun5mTtnrbkPSjNRK2ZdugJL1Z2V2L8KAomGP206vttjeuh82KZ5mA7FngBDH0cwCQO69YuWOMjv8vpKyWoSQeYqO63PGAZ2y_BgLo3UPQ/s1600/beulah_sunflower+041.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB29DuDAOcdsqd43MnNZ1sYOPkHG289-9KKMun5mTtnrbkPSjNRK2ZdugJL1Z2V2L8KAomGP206vttjeuh82KZ5mA7FngBDH0cwCQO69YuWOMjv8vpKyWoSQeYqO63PGAZ2y_BgLo3UPQ/s200/beulah_sunflower+041.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406987200722690178" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">forgotten about the huge boulders that line the canyon floor for quite some time. We passed the party that we had seen on Solar Slab and finally reached the trail. Darkness fell as we were approaching the parking lot. It had taken us 2:20 to descend. Showers and Japanese </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">food awaited us.</span></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-2498317493957194432009-11-01T11:19:00.000-08:002009-11-01T12:00:29.963-08:00cactus to clouds intro<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSINca4PHIaCM1V1Oc3CfzdCIKVbKXQaBRwRZmBXX7iWJp5IziAmaEWhW-7E_ReB0REvVxejOWjOPF-_rWbsj4UsJK3n4sTA70yMWk8RJRt82tV7Q5ig5Kz2bSOJCih2Jg5F1AAC0oF8I/s1600-h/cactus2clouds+015.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSINca4PHIaCM1V1Oc3CfzdCIKVbKXQaBRwRZmBXX7iWJp5IziAmaEWhW-7E_ReB0REvVxejOWjOPF-_rWbsj4UsJK3n4sTA70yMWk8RJRt82tV7Q5ig5Kz2bSOJCih2Jg5F1AAC0oF8I/s200/cactus2clouds+015.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5399218333588530162" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">I first heard about Cactus to Clouds a few months ago from one of my coworkers, Dominic. The route to the tram gains 8,000 ft in ~11 miles (10,000 ft in ~16.5 miles if you include the summit of San Jacinto Peak). October rolled around and with the more reasonable daytime temps, I decided to give it go. I talked Jascha into accompanying me. I had read varying reports about what to expect for time. The most authoritative C2C </span><a style="font-family: trebuchet ms;" href="http://www.geocities.com/cactus2clouds/mainmenu4.html" target="blank">site</a><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> said that that middle of the pack marathoners can expect to reach the tram in 4-5 hours. I’m not exactly in ultra shape and although I’ve been doing my usually shorter hill runs during the week, I haven’t done any long alpine days since August. One of the Summitposters I know took 16 hours to do the full out-and-back so I figured I’d be in that ballpark if I did the whole </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">thing. There was also a lot of online chatter about the steepness of the trail and the difficultly of </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">navigation the lower trail system, so I had Jascha download a <a href="http://www.everytrail.com/downloadGPX.php?file=user_data/GPX/115692.gpx&name=115692">GPS track</a>. I also printed a topo map, but I </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">wasn’t </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">sure about the accuracy of the hand drawn route annotations. Unfortunately, the Tom Harrison </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNP7niDNSHbsn-9BSgYt0XJp9s4lRI1UGaPNFrMIa8Ld-urp-07vMwsWLZhkgzY1xt8Soxp3POAOlJ57oYl7IoWtMwiE3NDezYcdBIONbAHP6jRVgKZv-ixyuadIt05Co0gZpg6AyPDdE/s1600-h/cactus2clouds+006.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNP7niDNSHbsn-9BSgYt0XJp9s4lRI1UGaPNFrMIa8Ld-urp-07vMwsWLZhkgzY1xt8Soxp3POAOlJ57oYl7IoWtMwiE3NDezYcdBIONbAHP6jRVgKZv-ixyuadIt05Co0gZpg6AyPDdE/s200/cactus2clouds+006.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5399220141219937154" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">topo series only covered the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">areas in close vicinity to San Jacinto State Park, not the portion of the trail that passed through the Agua Caliente </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Reservation.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />We headed down to Palm Springs the night before to avoid adding 2+ hours to the start time. I set my alarm for 5:30 am. My alar</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">m didn’t go off and I woke up at 6:30. We left the well-marked Museum </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&source=hp&q=map+101+museum+way+palm+springs+ca&ie=UTF8&gl=us&ei=weDtStz_GpDqsQOxkNn1Aw&ved=0CBIQ8gEwAA&hq=&hnear=101+N+Museum+Dr,+Palm+Springs,+Riverside,+California+92262&z=16" target="blank">trailhead</a> at ~7:20. Below the picnic tables there was a fair amount of trail branching, some of which </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">was obvious switchback cutting but some also fed into alternate systems that headed off to the east and west. For the most part at the alternate trail junctions the correct </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">trail was to the right. Parts of </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">trail are marked with painted white dots and arrows, although at one point the markings led in the wrong direction. The trail heads up the ridge initially in a northerly direction then diverts to the northwest, with the primary visible landmark being a major drainage the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">east. The </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHKdOzwk8afPc75X9K1R1sjdiQD2E17aGDqiIeN113U-OC3TyI9V2kEFtEKZgXgQKSDx8WF-WCVI2UghcLeEkKvMNS9p3KH01jgSx0kZdDgD-Zpk6HN4dUQ2qrxltUJAGSfZUSAY3T3RI/s1600-h/cactus2clouds+019.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHKdOzwk8afPc75X9K1R1sjdiQD2E17aGDqiIeN113U-OC3TyI9V2kEFtEKZgXgQKSDx8WF-WCVI2UghcLeEkKvMNS9p3KH01jgSx0kZdDgD-Zpk6HN4dUQ2qrxltUJAGSfZUSAY3T3RI/s200/cactus2clouds+019.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5399220321089052786" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Mojave desert flora included Mojave yucca (<span style="font-style: italic;">Yucca schidigera</span>), creosote bush (<span style="font-style: italic;">Larrea tridentata</span>) and various species of cacti (the most striking being the red-spined barrel cactus, <span style="font-style: italic;">Ferocactus acanthodes</span>). Along with the backdrop of granite boulders the plant life provided some major eye candy to take my mind off the long path </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">ahead.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />After the picnic tables we passed the warning signs about the strenuous nature of the trail and lack of water and the one for big horn sheep lambing season closures (1 January to 30 June). With the exception of one primary junction (which I suspect led to the Ramon road trailhead), the trail was well marked and there were less side trails. Before long we hit the ~ 3.5 mile section where the trail flattens out somewhat. We took a short snack break and I found out Jascha had </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">accidentally deleted the GPS track while recalibrating the elevation from our recent Peru trip. The intermittent winds kept the </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDckH-SGKjMV81Qelz1R7vsKpVQDmgkfdxV4YlFkxhB9CVdvnCN3VamRm-kP-OmfYkq26k21yS-c5WIqHsUBIXTlgrgxmTK8QdGUj6e-UqiPP45PLknhByAy0UhdM7DHfS6OVokEXevZc/s1600-h/cactus2clouds+032.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDckH-SGKjMV81Qelz1R7vsKpVQDmgkfdxV4YlFkxhB9CVdvnCN3VamRm-kP-OmfYkq26k21yS-c5WIqHsUBIXTlgrgxmTK8QdGUj6e-UqiPP45PLknhByAy0UhdM7DHfS6OVokEXevZc/s200/cactus2clouds+032.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5399220455792051538" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">temperatures down, although it also kicked up eye-stinging dust. As we approached the crest of the ridge we </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">caught our first glimpse the large pinnacle that marks the top of the tramway. With the introduction of manzanita and pine trees, the Mojave desert flora slowly transformed into that of the Peninsular Ranges.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />The trail contoured below the ridge proper and crossed the stream bed with the huge water worn granite slab marked on many maps as “Flat Rock”. After the slab the trail again steepened. To add to the psychological crux, the trail was in worse condition than below (due to the its above snowline </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">elevation) with deep sand and loose rocks in spots. I checked my watch and knew that I could likely break 5 hours to the tram if I kept a steady pace. Near the top Jascha started to lag behind, but told me to keep </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp4O8fYRqvQkES0dLHNUGk7nchr3xyhunR71S2ep467lEJYZ_WnsVc8y0iczz12I44Yhk-cEdwLgjmPJuU6EI9i0kGOxAuyC4pFjA02FsOIoFwHYYr-HQTSRzlMtoSfVhSZF7fQabAx4Q/s1600-h/cactus2clouds+044.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp4O8fYRqvQkES0dLHNUGk7nchr3xyhunR71S2ep467lEJYZ_WnsVc8y0iczz12I44Yhk-cEdwLgjmPJuU6EI9i0kGOxAuyC4pFjA02FsOIoFwHYYr-HQTSRzlMtoSfVhSZF7fQabAx4Q/s200/cactus2clouds+044.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5399220685395787682" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">going. I passed 3 guys and made it to the top of the plateau (the other side of the rock from the tram station) in 4:55. In ~10 minutes Jascha crested the trail and announced that he was done due to hamstring issues. He encouraged me to do the whole route, but I felt bad making him wait and have to shell out $25 for a taxi to go the 6 miles back to the car. Plus, I knew I’d likely finish in the dark and wasn’t sure how easy it would be to navigate by headlamp and topo map. I decided to backtrack to retrieve the car, which I estimated would take somewhere between 3 and 4 hours.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">I managed to avoid most of the side trail detours on the return trip. Fortunately, I remembered some of the distinctive rock formations from the ascent and was able to confirm that I was on route. I could see the golf course below the museum so I knew in what cardinal direction to head. About 0.8 miles from picnic benches I thought I may have taken a wrong turn and was headed for the Ramon trail system. It was hard to tell with the trail weaving in and out of the large granite boulders. I could see where I wanted to go, but not which trail system to take. I decided to cross the boulder field to a trail that I was fairly certain was headed in the right direction. Finally, I made it to the warning signs. When I got to the bottom Jascha was there to meet me. He reported that he had caught the tram almost immediately after we had parted and scored a ride back to his car from two of the guys we had passed on the trail. He passed the time at the coffee shop and napping on the grass. Total time: 8:40. I'd like to head back and go for the full out-and-back before the days get too short and the snow starts to linger. Stay tuned.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /><br />Assessment:</span> The trail is similar to Mt Wilson in terms of steepness, but longer. The bottom section is navigable without a GPS, but it may add some extra time with detours; a descent of the lower section in the dark would be trickier. If you get off-route the terrain is accommodating to x-country travel.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Additional References:<br /></span>San Jacinto State Park <a href="http://www.parks.ca.gov/pages/636/files/MtSanJacintoSPmap.pdf">topo map</a><br />Summitpost <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/155924/cactus-to-clouds.html" target="blank">description</a><br />Trail <a href="http://www.geocities.com/cactus2clouds/images/skyline_topo_map.jpg" target="blank">topo</a> (from the Cactus to Clouds Hiking Guide <a href="http://www.geocities.com/cactus2clouds/skyline.html" target="blank">site</a>)<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span></span></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-87652252089882837552009-10-23T23:12:00.000-07:002009-10-23T23:58:46.274-07:00the most spectacular barnyard on earth<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxw9QYQgpYdJktwUooCTou33k0Q8Rzx7weRnvJ7G3nr_jI8nbkT_gexLl2A5xgn7U5HqVwC2ILIw4z9VgHqdAll6WPsW1XsUwyNxfTKMXxtqlmwFgJZT5Wu6NAf652sOwtqx_-tXs-Pdw/s1600-h/blog1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxw9QYQgpYdJktwUooCTou33k0Q8Rzx7weRnvJ7G3nr_jI8nbkT_gexLl2A5xgn7U5HqVwC2ILIw4z9VgHqdAll6WPsW1XsUwyNxfTKMXxtqlmwFgJZT5Wu6NAf652sOwtqx_-tXs-Pdw/s200/blog1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396054110417315602" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Due to Jascha’s intestinal issues, our Huayhuash departure got pushed out a day. My guidebook advised that we take a bus to Huallanca and get let off at Quartelhuain (aka km 38), so we booked bus tickets from Huaraz to Huallanca. My topo map (Brad Johnson’s <a href="http://peaksandplaces.com/purchase_map.htm" target="blank">Cordillera Huayhuash 1:50000 map</a>) did not show the alternate route from Huaraz to H</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">uallanca that completely bypasses Quartelhuain. Fortunately the road was good and the </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnuNKEvMX8rZyqM0CEpfUwGGfEhyphenhyphenZItz5rUtYk-mTgAYSym_khM7UXsUGiRQdyOrK_DgmR9DNGFkdLBMKZ4KNSaVZgKqH7k23xqix1ow3FD92Dd8uZspTIEvoWjy4FylyE1DtuS_cVzig/s1600-h/blog2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnuNKEvMX8rZyqM0CEpfUwGGfEhyphenhyphenZItz5rUtYk-mTgAYSym_khM7UXsUGiRQdyOrK_DgmR9DNGFkdLBMKZ4KNSaVZgKqH7k23xqix1ow3FD92Dd8uZspTIEvoWjy4FylyE1DtuS_cVzig/s200/blog2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396054205365353522" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">detour </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">did</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">n’t add much extra time. We hired a taxi to take us from the dreary </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">mining town of Huallanca to km 38. Although Jascha’s </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">turista h</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">as mostly abated he now had a cold, not </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">ideal at altitude.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />M</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">y initial plan was to hike up and over the Cacanan Pass (15,387 ft) to access the east side of the range </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">for a day, then cross-country </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">over Garagocha Punta (Pass) back catch to the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">westerly rou</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">te. I knew we w</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">ould have to do an abbreviated version given our late start. At </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">the trailhead we saw</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">remnants of </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">a </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">t</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">rekking camp from the night before. That group, like </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXKCn8QlG2-swr0lmO_7dJdYrDv8e2Y9zVJjdX07Ahy-3OdUE___WQ70PmvzS2ns3NQNOwaPrr6wqaKf2yKw_UDiq47tECIn9cyXLYBDTcivv8_m88nM2eK-wa37Wlt53uZrpKaErCCSE/s1600-h/blog3.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXKCn8QlG2-swr0lmO_7dJdYrDv8e2Y9zVJjdX07Ahy-3OdUE___WQ70PmvzS2ns3NQNOwaPrr6wqaKf2yKw_UDiq47tECIn9cyXLYBDTcivv8_m88nM2eK-wa37Wlt53uZrpKaErCCSE/s200/blog3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396055003042602146" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">most, was employing mules, porters, and cooks. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">We were self-supported. I’m not a huge fan of backpacking </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">for the sake of backpacking, but having </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">climbed in the Andes previously, I know that glaciated peak slogs are not high </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">o</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">n my list of fun activities. From </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">what I’d seen from other people’s Huayhuash photos, I figured I could make an exception to my anti-backpacking </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">principles.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">We started up the trail around noon. About 500 vertical feet from the pass it started to rain. We backtracked </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">and took shelter in a cave. Jascha told me he wasn’t doing well with the altitude. I had him take an acetazolamide pill and we decided to abandon our easterly excursion. On a <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/fossana/Bolivia#" target="blank">2003 trip</a> to Bolivia I had been up to 19,974 ft, so I had some experience </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">with higher altitudes. Jascha had not been higher </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDHf-G7mhr4Z4WtFxHk0DbKDiA8iIkoyA8MfRXB3WZNCV3PN8pLOKwe_JVEetTHJp2-aetuzdOP1U-1ano2aF4Fx_mzUphqPM1XuvFdYucvatPhOMdp2Din1RrkX1jtMYMf1AMiBUrdA/s1600-h/blog4.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDHf-G7mhr4Z4WtFxHk0DbKDiA8iIkoyA8MfRXB3WZNCV3PN8pLOKwe_JVEetTHJp2-aetuzdOP1U-1ano2aF4Fx_mzUphqPM1XuvFdYucvatPhOMdp2Din1RrkX1jtMYMf1AMiBUrdA/s200/blog4.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396054349395934834" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">than 14,200 and his cold </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">was compounding the effects. Once we saw</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> a break in the weat</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">her we headed down to camp near the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">trailhead. The rain started up again so I left Jascha in another alcove while I look</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">ed for a tent site. I was starting to get the feeling that we would be hiking through a giant pasture for 3 days, a</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">lbeit a sc</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">enic one. I found a flat spot behind some boulders and we set up the tent in the rain. At </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">this point I was regretting that we had not brought the larger tent, although I was th</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">ankful that I </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">had invested in</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> an e-book reader before I left and read up on Sister Ping’s <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/17/books/17maslin.html" target="blank">human trafficking ring</a>. Jascha went to sle</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">ep </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">immediately, but I woke him around 6 pm to make him </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">eat.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">The next morning I awoke to first light and a tent covered with ice. We also had 2 visitors in the way of friendly dogs, who were </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg098FOz8vCgSZAk41Ibgi8nCuKqpPJem6UUojgzH1Lmpd7vKS_pp9Wgjmy9Mn835n0_tqYA7n-VPGKW85gs-NmKz5vpzVca60rJi25CUWO3GJ0RXzFsH3MjbPsDEcAevuBV7Fbl_i5zIk/s1600-h/blog5.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg098FOz8vCgSZAk41Ibgi8nCuKqpPJem6UUojgzH1Lmpd7vKS_pp9Wgjmy9Mn835n0_tqYA7n-VPGKW85gs-NmKz5vpzVca60rJi25CUWO3GJ0RXzFsH3MjbPsDEcAevuBV7Fbl_i5zIk/s200/blog5.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396054504816545122" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">thoroughly enjoying the rolling terrain. One of them extracted half of a freshly killed sheep carcass from a small cave ~100 feet from our tent and proceeded to roll on it. As we were packing up a local woman approached and asked for a fee of </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">15 soles each (~$5) ‘por la protección’. I had read that we should expect to have to pay camping fees so it didn’t come as a surpr</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">ise. She gave </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">us a receipt and left with our money and the sheep carcass. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />The trekking route detoured onto the dirt road to the village of Rondoy (more like a few </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvFRXxXVgfmYBK4YTmYBrmnEhHY_iDz63DqhbOy4RBUl0XvBSbuM3djYZQwVA3XKDw6emgfOshi8w_aOn6aCb0cPC71O-QC05LVNwMrqTGJjEUoQ-3_bF8DnNZ1SiQFQU832GZdJl236U/s1600-h/blog6.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvFRXxXVgfmYBK4YTmYBrmnEhHY_iDz63DqhbOy4RBUl0XvBSbuM3djYZQwVA3XKDw6emgfOshi8w_aOn6aCb0cPC71O-QC05LVNwMrqTGJjEUoQ-3_bF8DnNZ1SiQFQU832GZdJl236U/s200/blog6.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396055283850318626" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">stone huts). At this point we had to decide </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">whether to take the direct dirt road to Llamac or take the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">more scenic </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">tre</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">kking route over another pass and along the</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> base of the Huayhuash or split up and </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">take separate routes. Aft</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">er some deliberation Jascha said that he would joi</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">n </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">me on the more scenic route.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">We left the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">dirt road and headed up the valley </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">following cow trails. From time to time we were followed by one of the curious, drooling bovines. As we heading south the views of Rondoy (19,258 ft) and </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">its subsidiary peaks came into view. We were in the most picturesque cow pasture I had ever encountered. I was glad that I had the topo map because with the cow trails, the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">hikers’ trail had beco</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">me </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJelOI0-81TvlrwHzrzddYMwj-l2Afm8liFEDJNP_PrES5jmJLyHFKGkZt4PdxyCwgnCcnJweByQPSCsY5CM6B076Zmmzzber_tRIJNHOcSlf91N9wNmPdFXabCiXMX29IZg-DrOUDUaU/s1600-h/blog7.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJelOI0-81TvlrwHzrzddYMwj-l2Afm8liFEDJNP_PrES5jmJLyHFKGkZt4PdxyCwgnCcnJweByQPSCsY5CM6B076Zmmzzber_tRIJNHOcSlf91N9wNmPdFXabCiXMX29IZg-DrOUDUaU/s200/blog7.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396055428104845682" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">increasingly more d</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">ifficult to follow and I had </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">to navigate by topographic features. The crux, the 15,584 ft Sambuya Pass, was in view but Jascha was having a difficult time keeping up, and the wind and cloud cover was making it increasingly colder.<br /><br />Finally, we crested the saddle and caught a glimpse of the intensely turquoise Solteracocha Lake with the massive Jirishanca and Yerupaja peaks and associated glaciers looming above. The am</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">azing views made the slog well worth it (at least for me).</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">Again we encountered a maze of trails, but t</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">his time we </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">chose poorly and ended up on what Jascha called ‘a third class grass' slope. Fortunately, we made it through the cliff band and onto some </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">sheep trails which dropped us into a nasty patch of brush, easy </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">passage for those under 3 ft in </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEindooaAg-8m698JoskGvNc4FymtCkRlUcGp0H1Vqt9TV8DKy-X8tgjGiIHkLbrFPdCPwYbN0aiB4Y7xGnjBTwraCMj6SAfXgXCE8izVlKMERn979egu7uiCqv6DEZH5XEtLu0W4yyocps/s1600-h/blog8.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEindooaAg-8m698JoskGvNc4FymtCkRlUcGp0H1Vqt9TV8DKy-X8tgjGiIHkLbrFPdCPwYbN0aiB4Y7xGnjBTwraCMj6SAfXgXCE8izVlKMERn979egu7uiCqv6DEZH5XEtLu0W4yyocps/s200/blog8.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396055778914927490" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">height. After what seemed like forever we found our way to the valley floor. As we cruised toward the main </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">camping area once </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">again the storm clouds rolled in. Rainy season was a mont</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">h away yet we had experienced </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">persistent afternoon/evening sho</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">wers two days in a row. We sped up, but by the time we reached a </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">suitable site the rain and winds were in full force and our nerves were frayed. We hurried to</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"> get the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">tent set up (which was still wet from the previous day) and once again piled in </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpb_gZ9yUopa8ffwSUMn4-YyYoNeF6rX0BpFmtjt_8VHoydeyk2mhauNYBiFb4_b8FdqFaxvjjFesjuAwNYQdKKOBCtPY3cn1Np1I9sOTqMPw9m4auaeuZ8GultPCBnB5OaS7dYjUecMg/s1600-h/blog10.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpb_gZ9yUopa8ffwSUMn4-YyYoNeF6rX0BpFmtjt_8VHoydeyk2mhauNYBiFb4_b8FdqFaxvjjFesjuAwNYQdKKOBCtPY3cn1Np1I9sOTqMPw9m4auaeuZ8GultPCBnB5OaS7dYjUecMg/s200/blog10.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396056114071919794" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">with our damp gear.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">I warned Jascha that we’d need to get an early start the next day if there was any hope of making it to Ch</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">iquian or Huaraz the following day. It was Sunday and taxi/bus availability in Llam</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">ac were uncertain, plus we had one more obstacle, a 13,800 ft pass. We spent another restless night in our cramped tent. The next morning, like clockwork, some locals came by for our camping fees. Apparently, we had crossed </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">into another zone, so our previous payment wasn’t transferable. We hurriedly packed up and headed out toward Llamac. On the way w</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">e </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYZpvr2VQn3CJUvZ1_I8kgHb-8oQJqflBTeaAPYT2lTWris9EDsdn6m9HmTJAFI4_oDOjr7aELt6GwdFcppI0HSln2-bXo6tw4OQd4FDbR-3Hl1CZdKJXWsyXNk8pWSWiK1oCPTtNFh8/s1600-h/blog13.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYZpvr2VQn3CJUvZ1_I8kgHb-8oQJqflBTeaAPYT2lTWris9EDsdn6m9HmTJAFI4_oDOjr7aELt6GwdFcppI0HSln2-bXo6tw4OQd4FDbR-3Hl1CZdKJXWsyXNk8pWSWiK1oCPTtNFh8/s200/blog13.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396056274368845554" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">were advised by the father of the men we had paid that it was too late to make it t</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">o Huaraz. Conveniently his daughter owned a hostel in Chiquian, so I decided to ignore this </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">advice.</span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">After not too long the trail began to gradually climb out of the river valley; it reminded me of the oak </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">chaparral hills of California minus the backdrop of 19,000 ft peaks. Jascha was still not feeling well and started falling behind. While I waited I chatted with Martin, a </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">guy from Switzerland who had done the </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">entire Huayhuash circuit self-supported in 10 days instead of the usual 18 (with support). He </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVU6fm2MF92y7HklWxaaKx2CbmPCEy-hMzLpUjWlaBIxeN0HCNnWNhISMbuaCIBQuglWM38lWqA_81DK8tDmcVlGuvcpRDJdKy65-Hnfk7asDnuQ0cD3S-RBxDWApowCsEIllj6cmKBUg/s1600-h/blog14.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVU6fm2MF92y7HklWxaaKx2CbmPCEy-hMzLpUjWlaBIxeN0HCNnWNhISMbuaCIBQuglWM38lWqA_81DK8tDmcVlGuvcpRDJdKy65-Hnfk7asDnuQ0cD3S-RBxDWApowCsEIllj6cmKBUg/s200/blog14.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5396056466381290978" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">said that the locals confirmed that the weather had been unseasonably wet this year. I was most impressed that he had lugged around a huge SLR set-up the whole </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">time. </span> <span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /><br />When Jascha caught up I found out that he was doing even worse than before. We still had a mile or so to the pass and I offered to take so</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">me of his gear but he said no. I was happy to finally crest the pass. Jascha was out of water and still feeling nauseous. I knew we had to hurry if there was any hope of getting out of Llamac that day so I urged him to keep moving. I was aiming to reach Llamac by 11:30 am to make the 1 pm Chiquian-Huaraz bus, but I watched 11:30 come and go. We played leap frog once again with Martin and finally rolled int</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;">o the village of Llamac. The first thing I noticed was the total lack of taxis. Luckily one of the locals came up and said ‘bus?’. By some stroke of luck we’d arrived just in time to catch the 12:30 bus to Huaraz. That meant a hot shower at the Steel Guest House and dinner at our favorite restaurant, La Brasa Roja, but best of all no tent.<br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/fossana/HuarazCordilleraHuayhuash#5389150480762547346" target="blank"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Route</span></span></span></a><br /></div><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:trebuchet ms;"><br /></span> </span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-45263783917765054262009-10-01T06:31:00.000-07:002009-10-01T07:16:59.338-07:00on the ají trail<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_NUX8G0qXkK3bzGgb0azfHoCzGY7nXDBC6BfwNB3tX-kDzh740Mg27fk14yEs6XXbuU0Om5jGXA5E4mgDrdhY-cFlEaXYSJeUaTbz_iA80Ujz5lfkpDzdP_F4xg5HC-vqHTZaDmH9B7I/s1600-h/lima_cuzco-009.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_NUX8G0qXkK3bzGgb0azfHoCzGY7nXDBC6BfwNB3tX-kDzh740Mg27fk14yEs6XXbuU0Om5jGXA5E4mgDrdhY-cFlEaXYSJeUaTbz_iA80Ujz5lfkpDzdP_F4xg5HC-vqHTZaDmH9B7I/s200/lima_cuzco-009.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387625022630428050" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >We arrived in Lima at 3 in the afternoon to uniformly grey skies. I wasn't sure if it was overcast or smoggy, but I strongly suspected the former. Our hostal was run by a kind older woman, named Marisol, who stopped by to make sure our room was OK. We ventured out for our first taste of true Peruvian pollo a la brasa, which we found in a nondescript place next to the gargantuan supermarket, Plaza Vea. When I asked for </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >a</span><span style="font-size:85%;">jí</span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" > the waiter brought us out the special red version from behind the counter. The chicken turned out to be the best pollo a la brasa I've had to date, with the perfectly spiced dry rub and smoke-infused flesh.</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLWufoaewqJAbqYoCeIIqPfxNiLlnZPMv4J2fhYWyI_u16ZvoSPQSZ0rv95VR-aB8nbMuMCb8YnVaroLcvTXP0reaIyTovRkUHPhboKSB7I3624vE8fBFYTovFQTCVGObA1rPgVdE5Kho/s1600-h/lima_cuzco-005.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLWufoaewqJAbqYoCeIIqPfxNiLlnZPMv4J2fhYWyI_u16ZvoSPQSZ0rv95VR-aB8nbMuMCb8YnVaroLcvTXP0reaIyTovRkUHPhboKSB7I3624vE8fBFYTovFQTCVGObA1rPgVdE5Kho/s200/lima_cuzco-005.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387625651804306098" border="0" /></a><br /><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >After remediating the sleep deprivation from our red eye flight to Lima, and a fresh pot of Bialetti espresso from Marisol, we caught our flight to Cuzco. I had exchanged emails</span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" > in Spanish with the company we'd arranged for the Machu Picchu part of the trip and to </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >the best of my knowledge we were supposed to be picked up from the airport. We were greeted at the gate and escorted by a man from the guiding service whose cell phone </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >ring tone was amusingly, Bon Jovi's 'Shot Through the Heart'. Our hotel, the </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkDU7vSNDRl4Kvb6RSIL6tlrRwW3jiK1sp0Ge5uZ5-i9kWT_4gp0Th553H1jMLcgDwE9pm42aRtftfCngZ8V-zKcn5UO-u70TpDU5xDKWH_vNHmnZc55_OoS2haBcTwJrokCdGreZq4Jc/s1600-h/lima_cuzco-016a.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkDU7vSNDRl4Kvb6RSIL6tlrRwW3jiK1sp0Ge5uZ5-i9kWT_4gp0Th553H1jMLcgDwE9pm42aRtftfCngZ8V-zKcn5UO-u70TpDU5xDKWH_vNHmnZc55_OoS2haBcTwJrokCdGreZq4Jc/s200/lima_cuzco-016a.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387626043031610034" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >stylish </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >Picola Locanda, was high up on the hill on a steep, cobblestone pedestrian walk above Plaza de Armas, so I got </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >in some training for the Cordillera Huayhuash portion of the trip (Jascha let the driver carry his pack as usual because he </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >can't say no).<br /></span><br /><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >We had an hour before the service was supposed to give us </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >an overview of the Machu Picchu trip so we took a walk up the hill to Sacsayhuaman, one of the many Inca ruins in </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbUDIqG8kiaTIaiy9BFzdbdCJyIOX-EMF3clpqInRVSgZVQKHTa6-JnWGdMkoYvxBrCPg5Fg-rqu_j_qGdNutXBzIzNE0cQ9l-hiCU36QvlO81c7ZFhBxGhcOsNU0n_lzRuBytwV-N5Dc/s1600-h/lima_cuzco-048.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbUDIqG8kiaTIaiy9BFzdbdCJyIOX-EMF3clpqInRVSgZVQKHTa6-JnWGdMkoYvxBrCPg5Fg-rqu_j_qGdNutXBzIzNE0cQ9l-hiCU36QvlO81c7ZFhBxGhcOsNU0n_lzRuBytwV-N5Dc/s200/lima_cuzco-048.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387626350095714530" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >the area. We found a pathway that cut under a barbed wire </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >fence (the lower wires conveniently tied up to form a passage way) and bypassed </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >the roadway. The pathway took </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >us up to a series of stone terraces and from the top provided a view of the remaining ruins. We didn't have much time so we headed back to our hotel.<br /><br /></span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >After handing over our trip fees we headed down the hill for a satisfying set lunch at El </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >Fogon and a visit to Qoricancha, the remains of an</span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" > Incan temple housed inside the Cathedral de Santo Domingo. Sadly, very little of the actual ruins remained (most had </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >been restored post-earthquake), so we spent more time looking at </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrN-yY25MXllNo9xMdi8vqnuTawmzjkaGnChVU4V4COnsP44qLbLfbe8SaC2Fl6j3ExCvNEeM7HHvBSvXC6blFAKHyiuTOuoIqUH376cth1XEhJVAH3n-cF8UOWNDzAcRhGIMy1bDYxnM/s1600-h/lima_cuzco-035.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrN-yY25MXllNo9xMdi8vqnuTawmzjkaGnChVU4V4COnsP44qLbLfbe8SaC2Fl6j3ExCvNEeM7HHvBSvXC6blFAKHyiuTOuoIqUH376cth1XEhJVAH3n-cF8UOWNDzAcRhGIMy1bDYxnM/s200/lima_cuzco-035.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387628716377596898" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >the Catholic </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >paintings, which were littered with a pleasing array of demons, sickness, and death. I noticed that no one, Spanish speaking or otherwise, was paying any attention to the 'no photography' signs.<br /><br /></span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >Next on the list was hitting the local pharmacy for Cipro and acetazolamide. As we passed the Plaza de las Armas we noticed several displays of political art bringing light to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alberto_Fujimori" target="blank">Alberto Fujimori</a>, his head of intelligence, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vladimiro_Montesinos">Vladimiro </a></span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" ><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vladimiro_Montesinos" target="blank">Montesinos</a>, and the numerous victims of the regime's death squads</span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >. After </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKEvE7pBJQjgVUoKnKzK7MZv4BCVhg93wRm_oLWnL9rSwlkoTbVsGy6WYg1bUyHDB4C-BpX964ryiRIY3Xf-Vmd8Wp9QxAHojWP4WrQsEimXwcZ9FEwklR4_fSuyDXrLtEg_f9N1q02o/s1600-h/lima_cuzco-054.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKEvE7pBJQjgVUoKnKzK7MZv4BCVhg93wRm_oLWnL9rSwlkoTbVsGy6WYg1bUyHDB4C-BpX964ryiRIY3Xf-Vmd8Wp9QxAHojWP4WrQsEimXwcZ9FEwklR4_fSuyDXrLtEg_f9N1q02o/s200/lima_cuzco-054.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387626992793433090" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >finding a phramacy, I made Jascha return the Cipro</span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" > after he got charged $25 per course (we later found it for $3 in the non-touristy part of town). We wandered around the locals' part of town and found el Mercado de Santa Ana, where we picked up cheese and Jascha's new drink of choice, </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >Negrita brand Chicha Morada. Morada. As dusk started to fall the anticuchos stands started coming out and for ~$0.35 I picked up a skewer laden with scrumptious a</span><span style="font-size:85%;">jí</span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >.<br /><br />At 7:45 am the next morning we were picked up for the long trip to Aguas Calientes. I</span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" > decided that I didn't want to deal with the train/hotel/entrance fee logistics and the tour provided logistics coordination at less than what I could arrange on my own. The</span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0yQNtor4mmGeHyToVoL9FLVhbbReBk0zv2e0tPvOLjUDEfsGiw6R3RgXNpgxBXGGPuaOylaQ7-sdCnmmyHEXtVN1Tf9qdsVN6BLUMXnDPt4ojMvxhOEdMJEyQfkp2JTEjxVQsC1U2Hjc/s1600-h/machu_picchu-016.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0yQNtor4mmGeHyToVoL9FLVhbbReBk0zv2e0tPvOLjUDEfsGiw6R3RgXNpgxBXGGPuaOylaQ7-sdCnmmyHEXtVN1Tf9qdsVN6BLUMXnDPt4ojMvxhOEdMJEyQfkp2JTEjxVQsC1U2Hjc/s200/machu_picchu-016.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387629265127388754" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" > trip was long, ~6 hours of driving (much of it on dirt roads) plus another 30 minutes on the train. We reluctantly set our alarms for 4:15 am to allow time to hike up to the entrance and procure one of the coveted numbers for the trek up Huayna Picchu in lieu of the guided portion of our tour.<br /><br />We set out just before 5 am and after 50 minutes of trails and stairways we reached the entrance station. The gates opened at 6 and everyone anxiously awaited for the perfect </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >photo op as the first light hit the ruins. The size of the complex was massive, but what </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPhiMDdPnR2WbirgihLUKFnlwx_blapy0n3fhR7tn8BX-YuAdcXgRRKckK_amG5pbbZ1m4XmgSFdYMHLe0ocG7yr2keVH8wszvgpfWQrzZgBTtChq2mBZOUvICnFByveVdG_uVv4vjVgw/s1600-h/machu_picchu-048.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPhiMDdPnR2WbirgihLUKFnlwx_blapy0n3fhR7tn8BX-YuAdcXgRRKckK_amG5pbbZ1m4XmgSFdYMHLe0ocG7yr2keVH8wszvgpfWQrzZgBTtChq2mBZOUvICnFByveVdG_uVv4vjVgw/s200/machu_picchu-048.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387630451033912866" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >set it apart from somewhere like Angkor Wat was the topology of the site and surrounding </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >land. We crossed the site, admiring the perfect granite boulders that littered the area, and wandered over to the Huayna Picchu checkpoint. After 25 minutes of standing in line it was our turn to enter. We passed at least 20 </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >people on the steep stairways that led up to the peak that overlooks Macchu Picchu and provides excellent views of the snow-capped surrounding peaks. Once we returned to the site we toured more of the ruins and lounged on the grassy </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPk2JSCd1YFXOshyphenhyphenT9ihCYA0aKvisstDzuSdO5v9GaWmOshEbNTc7X6tFZrpm-D8q5PLgiT9V_fiPtdK5WADLP4d7XMMVrNgUiQgg6M1HAUCpqjj0oWFYIgQxTO9VzKOh4tDlIxLI_3I8/s1600-h/machu_picchu-058.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPk2JSCd1YFXOshyphenhyphenT9ihCYA0aKvisstDzuSdO5v9GaWmOshEbNTc7X6tFZrpm-D8q5PLgiT9V_fiPtdK5WADLP4d7XMMVrNgUiQgg6M1HAUCpqjj0oWFYIgQxTO9VzKOh4tDlIxLI_3I8/s200/machu_picchu-058.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387631221079154898" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >terraces, knowing that we'd have to face the long van ride back to Cuzco. I was covered with bug bites, which I suspected were from the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandfly" target="blank">flies</a> I had seen that looked a lot like the S American vector for leishmaniasis, but I knew my risk of contracting anything was extremely low.<br /><br />On the ride back home Jascha was having a hard time staying warm and felt nauseous. Ironically, two days earlier he had scoffed at me for not eating doner kebab, which I had thought wasn't sufficiently cooked. He though that he had some life-threatening exotic disease; I figured he had a somewhat severe case of turista and made him take Cipro. I wasn't sure what that </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis9eNdd-gcGmRJcQpVbE8_bEBlvuIorgH8Az_juvtyR6uhcVN8b7Zo0ovEaHqMEJN61Hp6NrqmIpDhRVtBah7FDZvoq8n0mVWotfVaDh7-r9jp4uklakIsV3Va73tFrMi6ilVAt9SqUG0/s1600-h/machu_picchu-089.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis9eNdd-gcGmRJcQpVbE8_bEBlvuIorgH8Az_juvtyR6uhcVN8b7Zo0ovEaHqMEJN61Hp6NrqmIpDhRVtBah7FDZvoq8n0mVWotfVaDh7-r9jp4uklakIsV3Va73tFrMi6ilVAt9SqUG0/s200/machu_picchu-089.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387631821712633298" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >meant for our trip to Huaraz the next day or for our Cordillera Huayhuash trip, but he agreed to fly back to Lima as planned 'for access to better </span><span style=";font-family:trebuchet ms;font-size:85%;" >hospitals'.</span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-37256565887462905422009-08-19T22:16:00.000-07:002009-08-19T22:27:22.425-07:00one with the moon<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkR6K_lTlciThB8lKZzzAO2YOjO4Q_EWWpXXuTgpoHY-wkQwrdLAPZGDOY4Gew1JhArqIZwZpCkWOWsPvVr3QP0eKiaWcoDVAnQVHT81UzpN2LcZYzT6fT5PLLuUvEMNg2BYuDcoVQZnM/s1600-h/moon_goddess+167a.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkR6K_lTlciThB8lKZzzAO2YOjO4Q_EWWpXXuTgpoHY-wkQwrdLAPZGDOY4Gew1JhArqIZwZpCkWOWsPvVr3QP0eKiaWcoDVAnQVHT81UzpN2LcZYzT6fT5PLLuUvEMNg2BYuDcoVQZnM/s200/moon_goddess+167a.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371911699293447378" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Jascha's announcement that he no longer wanted to solo 4th class+ with fatal exposure put a major damper on this year's alpine climbing plans. The season had already gotten off to a slow start with busy work schedules and lingering t-storms, but now I had to either quickly round up partners or adjust my wishlist. Having soloed <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/162928/venusian-blind-arete.html" target="blank">Venusian Blind</a> <a href="http://norikonakagawa.blogspot.com/2008/07/temple-time-with-rico_01.html" target="blank">last summer</a> with Miguel, <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/156256/moon-goddess-arete.html" target="blank">Moon Goddess</a> didn't seem totally out of question. Granted it was a grade higher (5.8 versus 5.7), but like most High Sierra routes I knew it wasn't </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtmEQAJP1u2H11f_uEWC1qwz96qN8oG53EZc5wwJKd50xgXgEd8YRqqQOJCNyRRcmBF3jwub5XZ6SvNDyTzQOn0AWGJgtNjVp4dsmXBJ7yt92_K0WyKaYbvXWDVqCiGHfE0bhqXq5BRFo/s1600-h/moon_goddess+040.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtmEQAJP1u2H11f_uEWC1qwz96qN8oG53EZc5wwJKd50xgXgEd8YRqqQOJCNyRRcmBF3jwub5XZ6SvNDyTzQOn0AWGJgtNjVp4dsmXBJ7yt92_K0WyKaYbvXWDVqCiGHfE0bhqXq5BRFo/s200/moon_goddess+040.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371911804744922882" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">sustained. I was familiar with quality of rock on Venusian (just one arete over), so I took reports of horribly loose rock with a grain of salt. I also knew that there was a gully to the left of the route into which one could bail if things got </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">too sketchy. My main concern was getting off-route on more difficult terrain, but I figured between the detailed route descriptions from summitpost and Supertopo I'd figure it out.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br /><span style="font-family:verdana;">The night before the weather report daytime max temps in the high 40s, but I hoped it would likely be warmer as it was the weekend before on Spire Col. I gave myself an extra hour of sleep to let things warm up and left the trailhead at 6:10 am. It was 42F. Fortunately, as I got into the sun things started to warm up. There was one other party on Dark Star, but amazingly no one that I could see on Venusian or Moon Goddess. Last July there were at least 3 other parties on Venusian on a Wednesday. I made good time to the </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX4_wFtB_GP2kAspXVeMSGgzOhPWekrmISA_OEAR_sCiM4eLxsja0XO-fhlm0asbOTF2fi-OGt35adKFleausLavNrlGWKOP2s-S6QFFzSIOunryMUASy8jZHt3-x5p70TIe8UM6H1XQw/s1600-h/moon_goddess+052.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX4_wFtB_GP2kAspXVeMSGgzOhPWekrmISA_OEAR_sCiM4eLxsja0XO-fhlm0asbOTF2fi-OGt35adKFleausLavNrlGWKOP2s-S6QFFzSIOunryMUASy8jZHt3-x5p70TIe8UM6H1XQw/s200/moon_goddess+052.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371911925769240194" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">bottom </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">of the snowfield, reaching its base in little less than 3 hours. Unfortunately, no parties ahead of me also meant no </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">steps kicked into the snowfield a</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">nd I hadn't bothered to bring crampons or an ice axe (I realize this happened last year as well). The snow was too firm to kick more than tiny ledges with my approach shoes. I grabbed a sharp rock and stepped from sun cup to sun cup. At the spots where the sun cups ran out I chipped out handholds and gingerly traversed the slope. This whole exercise added at least </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">20 minutes.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:verdana;">The first part of the route</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"> is shared with Venusian and consists of heading up a series of 3rd class ledges. The next six or so pitches were 4th class and provided the perfect warm-up for </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7TUUA0gFjFO5KxJ6KjORXbqouYu8-j1adUffGC9gbWJmko4EHt-CVC7PyZUsCEV5CLRFI6_8JsQE5bPUIvqb9s5vAt81PSUtCOqSyKE6rDSxYkWnHfO_HjjJPCsYRXo1JVSBHyjOvQZU/s1600-h/moon_goddess+086.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7TUUA0gFjFO5KxJ6KjORXbqouYu8-j1adUffGC9gbWJmko4EHt-CVC7PyZUsCEV5CLRFI6_8JsQE5bPUIvqb9s5vAt81PSUtCOqSyKE6rDSxYkWnHfO_HjjJPCsYRXo1JVSBHyjOvQZU/s200/moon_goddess+086.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371912055421572930" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">the exposed 5.7 traverse I knew would come when I reached the first tower. At the bottom of the tower I changed into my climbing shoes and peeked around the corner. For once the descriptions were accurate when they said exposed. Granted the holds were positive, but the wall was completely </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">vertical and it was a long way down (more descriptive photo courtesy of Miguel <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=446600&context_id=156256" target="blank">here</a>). The thing I find so satisfying about soloing it </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">that once I'm on a committing section my mind is completely clear to focus only on the </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV1W-0Qw53R1lqKq1eyympxWL2Qcckay2CxuQdsKlt_svM1kG93I9XCjhTEPwg7joeG6ucJF1w3GQqtlVKGoG-Bwn-Iop1BDi2y3lT0RpBFYxV736GYT40kWrQLhLUimP-Xmz31ahxvR4/s1600-h/moon_goddess+102.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV1W-0Qw53R1lqKq1eyympxWL2Qcckay2CxuQdsKlt_svM1kG93I9XCjhTEPwg7joeG6ucJF1w3GQqtlVKGoG-Bwn-Iop1BDi2y3lT0RpBFYxV736GYT40kWrQLhLUimP-Xmz31ahxvR4/s200/moon_goddess+102.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371912180149840466" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">task at hand. Even doubts about my ability to complete the moves or concerns over holds pulling out completely disappear. Other than lane-splitting on my motorcycle it's the only activity I've found that truly frees my mind of its usual thought storm.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:verdana;">With the traverse past me I climbed into the notch that leads up to the Ibrium Tower and the crux. From the cushy belay ledge the crux looked somewhat intimidating, a 5.7 lichen covered chimney followed by a 5.8 dihedral. I could see a </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">reasonable escape route into the gully, but decided that I might as well give the route a go since I was here. The chimney was fairly easy and despite the two desperately placed cams jammed for eternity in the dihedral, the crux wasn't too bad. I scrambled </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd8pN7k3yuRPkFsEGV67yZJEscEnJlI_Gkbu9VwpImjVvbum_gQ4rnhKD_3B-WCZNHonlzKmPatn3u1qMjORHWzwjTgHBfHrvEe72koG5ivQRZYY3w-hz8x91M8BwjQCMOJT67ScWTS8M/s1600-h/moon_goddess+099.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd8pN7k3yuRPkFsEGV67yZJEscEnJlI_Gkbu9VwpImjVvbum_gQ4rnhKD_3B-WCZNHonlzKmPatn3u1qMjORHWzwjTgHBfHrvEe72koG5ivQRZYY3w-hz8x91M8BwjQCMOJT67ScWTS8M/s200/moon_goddess+099.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371912289543698674" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">up to the white marble belay ledge and around the corner to the narrow 4th class ledge system. I could how other parties got sucked into the harder terrain above, but with Dave Daly's excellent route description routefinding wasn't an issue.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br /><span style="font-family:verdana;">I easily found the "diving board" chockstone (as described by Dave) that marked the top of the next pitch. The 5.7 gully took me up the back side of Ibrium tower. The 5.7ish downclimb into the notch was more like 12 feet than 20. I approached my final </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">challenge, an exposed 5.7 crack requiring committing lieback moves. This section wasn't as steep as I expected and although it did require a few lieback moves, there were large intermittent </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">footholds and it wasn't sustained. With that behind me I knew I was home free. The final 5.6 tower was uneventful, and before long I was on the class 2-3 terrain that led up to the </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim9Ig7AiKOvXfDT0eUFHPCT9IY5kQwa6ibtTlwBADE4TxSkOOodvFnTedcYTPgTCoI5KjEoExHgsyTceK8wjZyIsPrX0XozjCBL5UJ9HrvbTEYS53DumhAjX-6JXZ1PFjebbjU3_AOwfY/s1600-h/moon_goddess+114.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim9Ig7AiKOvXfDT0eUFHPCT9IY5kQwa6ibtTlwBADE4TxSkOOodvFnTedcYTPgTCoI5KjEoExHgsyTceK8wjZyIsPrX0XozjCBL5UJ9HrvbTEYS53DumhAjX-6JXZ1PFjebbjU3_AOwfY/s200/moon_goddess+114.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371912498787847986" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">summit. It had taken me 3 hours, 30 minutes to climb the route. In another 30 I would be at the summit.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br /><span style="font-family:verdana;">There were still no signs of other parties once I topped out. The views of the Palisades were spectacular as always. After the requisite summit register session I headed down, hoping I'd easily find the Contact Crack downclimb. The route was well cairned and I </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">remembered that the crack lay to the left of the usual rap station. Once at Contact Pass I made the mistake of descending too close to Temple Crag (hoping I could get in a glissade) and traversing the loose moraine debris to reach more stable ground. I was happy to be back on the more stable talus field and even more so back on the trail. I cruised back </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">down to my car stopping only to take a photo for some guys from Bakersfield. They asked if I'd been hiking. I pointed to Temple Crag and said "See that ridge in the middle. I just climbed it." They were shocked. I </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Mso6R9VjeKmS3k4TjyltWrqRXr0zLfuvaGxgl6NpRSsiNeFOClsgwbDVAk0QesxiXVTVB_YLA85WvmZFVowUhCUBEZeqPXaHdRkiLbTqSk0ksJpnST4oUWlMbTR67oz06BkZ7QJMjZQ/s1600-h/moon_goddess+160.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Mso6R9VjeKmS3k4TjyltWrqRXr0zLfuvaGxgl6NpRSsiNeFOClsgwbDVAk0QesxiXVTVB_YLA85WvmZFVowUhCUBEZeqPXaHdRkiLbTqSk0ksJpnST4oUWlMbTR67oz06BkZ7QJMjZQ/s200/moon_goddess+160.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371912663522925218" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">hurried back to the trailhead, hoping to get back close to our Temple Crag time. I clocked </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">in at 10:55, just 6 minutes short.</span></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-27457692065974577032009-06-30T23:28:00.001-07:002009-06-30T23:43:31.453-07:00finding light on dark shadows<span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: verdana;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbb2xO8eohlj9BFbtunqSyXuteyYXNz4UabStwNZi7-xw-vksAh0J6XxyaY1yrmUi3wfCO2WRZB505n8fHC_SiXnp0P_Areas7_9DJgmU87v_fP5KTc4S7N0wXb_wrPWpei2WBwF9Hjw8/s1600-h/red+rocks+002.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbb2xO8eohlj9BFbtunqSyXuteyYXNz4UabStwNZi7-xw-vksAh0J6XxyaY1yrmUi3wfCO2WRZB505n8fHC_SiXnp0P_Areas7_9DJgmU87v_fP5KTc4S7N0wXb_wrPWpei2WBwF9Hjw8/s200/red+rocks+002.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5353374956888330178" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >note: This trip report also appears on <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/" target="blank">summitpost</a>.<br /><br />Thursday rolled around and I knew that the only thing that could free my mind from thoughts of work was climbing. A day of sport climbing or a 5-pitch trad route was not going to cut it; I needed to go bigger, so I </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >set my sights on the full 10-pitch version of the classic route Dark Shadows. The vast majority of people climb the 4-pitch version of <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/157472/dark-shadows.html" target="blank">Dark Shadows</a> and most of guidebooks were spotty on details for the remaining 6 pitches. Jerry Handren’s <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Gear_and_Reviews/Red_Rocks_A_Climber_s_Guide_Editorial_Review_744.html" target="blank">Red Rocks guide</a> had the most info on the route but provided only vague information about the descent from the Mescalito summit. He made mention of two </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >walk-off options (neither </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >recommended). I knew that we could descend Cat in Hat, that is if we could find our way from the summit to the top</span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" > of the route. Given our workloads there was no way we were going to beat the late afternoon traffic to Vegas so we didn’t end up getting out of town until 8:30 pm.<br /><br />Not surprisingly, we didn’t make it to the Pine Creek parking lot until around 10 am. We made the </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >mistake of leaving the main trail too early and had to bushwhack to get back on route. Had we stayed on the trail we would have ended up </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: verdana;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-KX02USy35WMgAPmb9s53Y3la-hT08VdRlZuSVGh0gjTggrvWUuK3DzzzNT5unID_6pIw-YrcPpVsgUNFHlRr1wCN28IwNd-n3F8kXY_E_PimqOYWzMp0gurXzWOMiQwT1R6WVq7ERJk/s1600-h/red+rocks+003.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-KX02USy35WMgAPmb9s53Y3la-hT08VdRlZuSVGh0gjTggrvWUuK3DzzzNT5unID_6pIw-YrcPpVsgUNFHlRr1wCN28IwNd-n3F8kXY_E_PimqOYWzMp0gurXzWOMiQwT1R6WVq7ERJk/s200/red+rocks+003.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5353375111758569794" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >directly at the base of the climb. No time was lost though because we had to wait for a party of two from Denver/Boulder to finish rapping. They had spent the last hour </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >getting on of their ropes down after it became lodged in a crack (par for the course on many Red Rock raps). We were surprised by the lushness of the canyon vegetation so late in the year. The rope </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >soaking pools of water were still present at the base of the route.<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >At 11:15 I started up the first pitch, a bolted slab. One of the CO crew kindly yelled up that I could link the first two pitches. The second pitch was a 5.6 polished dihedral. I wasn’t quit ready to commit to smearing on the slick rock so I used the crack and edges for my feet. At the traverse to the belay I was halted by a party of two from Tacoma, WA, who were just finishing a rap </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >to the second belay. They originally said they were from Seattle until I disclosed that I grew up in a redneck town close to where they lived. After ~20 minutes the belay ledge was free and Jascha headed up. <br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: verdana;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-9lOMLUvnHsdFlH_F1KIdSzQWSTmgTUYsu5kIt0aWTNL9ikd1A6WsOvZ4ZqKNZTkNanx5bApadX7-ux8398QOhuBqsD7aV-66ofUtIiSuegNEB7CkRGBVfqcKJ7fRo-rhS7mHpLLSslI/s1600-h/dark_shadows+009.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-9lOMLUvnHsdFlH_F1KIdSzQWSTmgTUYsu5kIt0aWTNL9ikd1A6WsOvZ4ZqKNZTkNanx5bApadX7-ux8398QOhuBqsD7aV-66ofUtIiSuegNEB7CkRGBVfqcKJ7fRo-rhS7mHpLLSslI/s200/dark_shadows+009.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5353375262384967858" border="0" /></a><br /></span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >The next pitch had a short </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >5.8 crux early on, forcing me to </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >place gear on a somewhat tenuous hand jam. Fortunately, the climbing eased up higher in the crack and face holds saved me from smearing on the polished walls. Pitch 4 followed a left </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >leaning, narrowing crack. I was unable to get any pro in the main crack but found a reasonable placement in a smaller crack. I was thankful because the next set of moves felt </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >off-balance. I set up a belay on the standard pitch 4 anchors. As I waited for Jascha to </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: verdana;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj06EL6Zenv8WWcTU9rcaMQKNzU6L3WiSqwREIEPYLfRPEbVKubWyPu7ucYXd-ylkK9PZUh8IFPHHBCTIVXQlkc6FA7llIxaCp-UUnkB2edi7Ncqhp4-mX0EwndT0eHhldLHaAtYNImN4k/s1600-h/dark_shadows+011.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj06EL6Zenv8WWcTU9rcaMQKNzU6L3WiSqwREIEPYLfRPEbVKubWyPu7ucYXd-ylkK9PZUh8IFPHHBCTIVXQlkc6FA7llIxaCp-UUnkB2edi7Ncqhp4-mX0EwndT0eHhldLHaAtYNImN4k/s200/dark_shadows+011.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5353375440731072802" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >come up I looked at what I thought was the path ahead. Above and to the left of me was a seam with two pieces of fixed pro that led to a crappy white sandstone </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >roof which looked devoid of any jugs from below. All of this was </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >accompanied by pretty much non-existent footholds. Once Jascha arrived I consulted my route description. I was pleased to learn that I was at the wrong anchors for the extended route, so I had </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >Jascha traverse around the corner to the correct belay. <br /><br />Pitch 5 started off with a bolt leading to a juggy roof, then up a crack to an anchor on a pillar. Handren’s description wasn’t specific about which of the 2 pillars to choose, but I ended up correctly </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: verdana;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjtBTfms2ra2uwn1hvElOo7Vigsg3jSwsBaRLGE8FMp_4CfTpZWBhUjoNMd0UoXERoZdlP0sngrge77-N7Ukd5SF3K7HcwWmKtVYb9paZwXJZo14Oo2Rl2kTkaWbA4hQxRvqKrfKljfEw/s1600-h/dark_shadows+029.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjtBTfms2ra2uwn1hvElOo7Vigsg3jSwsBaRLGE8FMp_4CfTpZWBhUjoNMd0UoXERoZdlP0sngrge77-N7Ukd5SF3K7HcwWmKtVYb9paZwXJZo14Oo2Rl2kTkaWbA4hQxRvqKrfKljfEw/s200/dark_shadows+029.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5353375727817855138" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >selecting the one on the left. By now I was fully exposed to the elements. The wind made communication difficult, but it also made the temperature more pleasant under the blazing June Vegas sun. The quality of the rock wasn’t as good as the lower sections; I was now climbing on the softer white sandstone, although some of the coveted brown </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >varnish remained. Unlike the lower pitches the anchors weren’t set up for a rap, although someone had created an ad hoc one wit</span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >h webbing through the bolt hangers. I </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >suspected we’d have to find another way down. <br /><br />The description for the next pitch mentioned a step across to a chimney protected by a bolt and a piton. From my vantage point I couldn’t see any fixed protection. I had 2 options, a wide chimney on the left that offered no good gear placements and a narrower </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >off-width to the right. I chose to climb the face between, using the right-hand crack for pro. Higher up I found a bolt to the right of the </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: verdana;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYDTQWzfViSzdr6W696bRUzaUPfDncvTRuc-zWNfOaPgUATGyuFqmP-w_e52ZNxQIrKkmF0esbfqhe3ZGhx9eOaem7k469yjaCsgVVy5tdSHI-L5mEkAFQSgsNIfmJMxEoPLVs17U3qRU/s1600-h/dark_shadows+062_p8.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYDTQWzfViSzdr6W696bRUzaUPfDncvTRuc-zWNfOaPgUATGyuFqmP-w_e52ZNxQIrKkmF0esbfqhe3ZGhx9eOaem7k469yjaCsgVVy5tdSHI-L5mEkAFQSgsNIfmJMxEoPLVs17U3qRU/s200/dark_shadows+062_p8.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5353376049468789138" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >crack. I found the alcove as described and made the traverse up and left to a now single bolt anchor. <br /><br /><br />Pitch 7 </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >started off with a finger crack and ended with a small ledge below a roof. Not finding many </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >opportunities for gear placement at the ledge I continued up the next pitch to the right of the roof and on to a series of </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >shrubby ledges. I set up a belay just below the first ledge, but as I feared Jascha could barely hear me with the </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >terrain between us and the gusty winds. Eventually he figured out that he was on </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >belay and headed up. Once he arrived we took down the anchor and </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >scrambled up to the official belay at the base of twin cracks up and to our left. The next pitch followed the twin cracks and ended with a single bolt anchor on a large ledge. Handren described this as 110’ but it was closer to 80’.<br /><br />We were making good time, but I tried not to be overly optimistic given what I’d read about the difficulties of the descent. The description for the final pitch mentioned a facing-</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: verdana;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijd8pVbqmybh_fVxcZo4GgDNORXx0WA7GB4hbM9OppgdQ4TDay20vnCLK0D86qiIiTFdw3I_0RfCPrgzrOXwzxN9IGZd7LgnQ7MUBUZ4v2GQqeHpfs5neb7g259B_sInAG_jpJO0IGl0Q/s1600-h/dark_shadows+068_p9.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijd8pVbqmybh_fVxcZo4GgDNORXx0WA7GB4hbM9OppgdQ4TDay20vnCLK0D86qiIiTFdw3I_0RfCPrgzrOXwzxN9IGZd7LgnQ7MUBUZ4v2GQqeHpfs5neb7g259B_sInAG_jpJO0IGl0Q/s200/dark_shadows+068_p9.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5353376818137916098" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >corner to huecoed roof. To my left was a white-sandstone dihedral ending at a blank-looking slab traverse to a </span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >roof. To my right was a varnished, shallower, but also right-facing corner, which led more directly to the roof. I chose left. As I approached the roof I could see good edges on the slab traverse (maybe next time). I found a horizontal crack to place a cam below my final stance before starting the roof, but then nothing to protect the roof moves. Fortunately, the roof revealed sizeable handholds and a spot for an excellent nut placement once I stood up at the lip. I scampered up the remaining terrain and before long I topped out on the large ledge about 150’ below the summit. Jascha soon followed, and we finished the last pitch in just under 5 hours.<br /><br />After a rest we packed up the rope and looked for a way up to the summit. We found a series of ramps </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><a style="font-family: verdana;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsh522y0yuasVwDERhdmQZ8gPBTGq92iRzTrqxU2JPE5vMCbaNAjpBq946cfVJfpZ7bZZ4xGXkJFRRGhypq9mZ2t8Xlhc7zNW9yr7fWAw9uJdPrKnFu013qva_r7Wn7uIbyr4xMVzGffo/s1600-h/dark_shadows+076.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsh522y0yuasVwDERhdmQZ8gPBTGq92iRzTrqxU2JPE5vMCbaNAjpBq946cfVJfpZ7bZZ4xGXkJFRRGhypq9mZ2t8Xlhc7zNW9yr7fWAw9uJdPrKnFu013qva_r7Wn7uIbyr4xMVzGffo/s200/dark_shadows+076.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5353376504759755042" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >interconnected with short 5.7-8 sections. Once we topped out we looked at the task ahead. I knew the approximate location of Cat in the Hat, but not what the buttress looked like from above or how to navigate the ramp systems to get down to the appropriate level. We found a bolted anchor with UV damaged webbing, but decided to look for something better. After getting cliffed out a few times trying to find the top of Cat in the Hat we headed along on the summit plateau up the canyon. Eventually we encountered a series of cairns. I had read about several walk-offs so I figured there was a good chance that they marked the path down. From time to time the path disappeared into the bushes. The cairns wound around the plateau and eventually led down a series of ramps on the north side of the formation. We thought we were on the descent trail until the cairns ended abruptly at the edge of a cliff.<br /><br />Fortunately, we were not the first to cliff out there</span><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" > and there was a fairly new tri-cam/nut/tree anchor. To be on the safe side we set up a double rope rappel and headed down. The ledges were covered ferns and large trees. Once we were done with the first rap I waited to make sure the ropes pulled cleanly then headed down to scout our next rap. Though difficult to see from above I found the second rap station and we headed down to the canyon floor. We were ~10 minutes upstream from the start of the route. It took both of us pulling to get our ropes down, but thankfully they pulled cleanly. We walked over gnarled tree roots, past frog-filled pools, and back to the car. </span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-59304152467246304762009-06-13T10:41:00.000-07:002009-06-14T21:28:28.019-07:00more like it<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSBdwuaYJrbhJuM5WOCICy_Kw91vtzoGgjubavBQy2c37PTPXXAvT_zOqt9HvkCFxM0vairtpLP8xoWzk4eYRELQufT2jMiIv6uHFK8JTLBcN7fjT6exe25yWuLWQwjgMF3TTDRGgkzNc/s1600-h/long_climb+021.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSBdwuaYJrbhJuM5WOCICy_Kw91vtzoGgjubavBQy2c37PTPXXAvT_zOqt9HvkCFxM0vairtpLP8xoWzk4eYRELQufT2jMiIv6uHFK8JTLBcN7fjT6exe25yWuLWQwjgMF3TTDRGgkzNc/s200/long_climb+021.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5346868841099473026" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">After anxiously waiting for a break in the t-storms, last Sunday we saw our chance to head back to Tahquitz. We had our sights on <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/514733/long-climb.html" target="blank">The Long Climb</a> (with the Wong variation). Our <a href="http://norikonakagawa.blogspot.com/2009/05/memorial-day-weekend-rolled-around-and.html" target="blank">prior trip</a> to Tahquitz involved a major traffic jam on Whodunit, so I was hoping for an additional parting of the crowds to return to our normal pace. Our original plan was to go on Monday, but after checking the weather forecast Sunday seemed like a better choice. Consequently, we didn't leave L.A. until 10:30 am.<br /><br />I made a last minute decision to ditch my #4 Camalot in the car despite the 'gear to 3.5"' recommendation. It had been an intensive month of work for both of us and I was feeling lazy about carrying extra gear. We started up the route around 1:30 pm seeing only one party several pitches up. As usual there were quite a few people on <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/292860/whodunit.html" target="blank">Whodunit</a>, but nothing like Memorial Day </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">weekend.</span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHej08-83PGlSWBl5hxSnR6wbNWdchcwGGcVj4TOj6IpzOSYCFfpmFGNw4njNFRoSvTPgf75sFy67ovzEDy3zYYpZJt6PsT5-5wi4rQo1IEQxlwjvm62urkoztrhYKp2gc5mUiDI_kFbM/s1600-h/long_climb+003.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHej08-83PGlSWBl5hxSnR6wbNWdchcwGGcVj4TOj6IpzOSYCFfpmFGNw4njNFRoSvTPgf75sFy67ovzEDy3zYYpZJt6PsT5-5wi4rQo1IEQxlwjvm62urkoztrhYKp2gc5mUiDI_kFbM/s200/long_climb+003.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5347273253314522354" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Right off the ground I realized that there would be no easing into the grade on this route. It was solid 5.8. My brain was having a hard time adjusting focus from search engine optimization to gear placement and my erratic sleep schedule wasn't helping. I was feeling far from efficient, but I wasn't ready to give up quite yet and pressed onward. At the top of the pitch I selected the left-hand belay to get longer range view of the path ahead. Mummy Crack loomed above me and I hoped that I wouldn't regret leaving my #4 cam in the car.<br /><br />I prepped Jascha on how to haul his pack (as recommended in the summitpost description) and headed up. I was pleased to discover a nice slot which started out j</span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnxxBbCLU_g5-SUwa9jFUS7qkLNY-aI-Klm38mreNNkG_mL8LtUAERxSDnA8_JkPDzMgSCoklvCrMSwUZVd-PUEh8iYDLx128QUZdCKV7ujVSE578veHcCazLMVLwZyVxDIqa-K77ZjMI/s1600-h/long_climb+002.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnxxBbCLU_g5-SUwa9jFUS7qkLNY-aI-Klm38mreNNkG_mL8LtUAERxSDnA8_JkPDzMgSCoklvCrMSwUZVd-PUEh8iYDLx128QUZdCKV7ujVSE578veHcCazLMVLwZyVxDIqa-K77ZjMI/s200/long_climb+002.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5347275422107298466" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">ust inside of the crack. This allowed me to climb it more like a lieback instead of doing grovelly chimney/offwidth moves. The only caveat was that the slot angled further into the crack the h</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">igher up I </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">went until I could barely reach it. I set my belay slightly short and to the left of the usual spot near the left-facing corner to </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">take full advantage of the sun. With the wind and passing clouds it was starting to get chilly. My belay spot gave me a great vantage point to watch the various parties on Whodunit. The downside was that the gear placements were a bit shallow and sparse. Jascha started up and was </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">having difficulties with his pack getting stuck in the crack below (and out of his reach), so he decided </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">to fully weight the rope to haul up the pack and wear it. It took all of my strength (and a few leg wraps) to hold his 230 lbs while he fidgeted with his pack for what seemed like 10 minutes. OK, so in retrospect my sparse belay was probably not exactly the best plan. I was happy to feel him finally unweight the rope and continue on.</span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCRWohZ_zBIFTcxDNA8Dh6PQuUOwURzeLBBfIZOpwlJV34gkobYVb-sbY6kUSJssMtNxc8tBtTEEcGFEa_r_8HKc-knlacwmWo1sJ9AAYLYgoTUwCnfwB78IVXTv-pyHfJSy7soLdWI9M/s1600-h/long_climb+013.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCRWohZ_zBIFTcxDNA8Dh6PQuUOwURzeLBBfIZOpwlJV34gkobYVb-sbY6kUSJssMtNxc8tBtTEEcGFEa_r_8HKc-knlacwmWo1sJ9AAYLYgoTUwCnfwB78IVXTv-pyHfJSy7soLdWI9M/s200/long_climb+013.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5347279548888964226" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br />We had several options for the next pitch and I chose the 'crack to slab' option from the route description because it seemed like it required more finesse than burl. The moves turned out to be somewhat tenuous, and I briefly entertained (but abandoned) the idea of traversing back left into the crack. After a few moves I was back on easier ground and soon found the dead mahogany tree that marked the belay.<br /><br />On pitch 4 I ignored the route description and headed straight up the (5.7+?) crack, which seemed better for rope management. I had a bit of difficultly following the route description afterward, only finding one pine tree above instead of the two described. I decided </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmwrZCSz_O_vqm0UZQhi4f6LKKZ8TIMg9705Dt2Rhe2xhEacFYCNvKV-i5wOS4cNryY77HoDhjYB1EcJa6P09LP6bi9NA-aup-lRfGiu9m5nqp_s1ry91jVY6I8n2FN2LMZhSZElWWMnc/s1600-h/long_climb+033.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmwrZCSz_O_vqm0UZQhi4f6LKKZ8TIMg9705Dt2Rhe2xhEacFYCNvKV-i5wOS4cNryY77HoDhjYB1EcJa6P09LP6bi9NA-aup-lRfGiu9m5nqp_s1ry91jVY6I8n2FN2LMZhSZElWWMnc/s200/long_climb+033.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5347282391385418370" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">to keep going to the next ledge and found the broken piton in the corner as noted in the route. From below I had trouble believing that this was 5.8, but I got a solid nut placement next to the piton to protect the awkward moves.<br /><br />I finished the climb by going up and slightly right, topping out near the top of Maiden Buttress. I could see where one of the large blocks up top had recently slid off the top (scary). Jascha had a hard time hearing me yell 'on belay', but eventually got the message and headed up. He topped out ~5:15 pm, much better than the >7 hours it took us to get through the Whodunit clusterf**k. It was just the break we needed to get through the next project push.<br /><br /></span></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-33994882369718223462009-05-26T21:37:00.001-07:002009-05-26T23:50:40.160-07:00taste of tuolumne<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPgKNFrMIqP_wHrxahuuCuxphBIr3CPmpx0ln1h-aAbj0K5ViVBnwhQthlvOdVAe3F7rJwmKuy3T4KGxDNV99sTU_w9MIvamRVv_nqs0k7MJ5TeTagSdcsKbVHEbyXo2nAEnkvx98Y8BU/s1600-h/whodunit+066.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPgKNFrMIqP_wHrxahuuCuxphBIr3CPmpx0ln1h-aAbj0K5ViVBnwhQthlvOdVAe3F7rJwmKuy3T4KGxDNV99sTU_w9MIvamRVv_nqs0k7MJ5TeTagSdcsKbVHEbyXo2nAEnkvx98Y8BU/s200/whodunit+066.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5340358351913061938" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Memorial Day weekend rolled around and Jascha and I were both deeply entrenched in meeting project deadlines. A 3 day climbing trip was out of the question and I was craving multi-pitch trad, so <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/152259/tahquitz-rock-lily-rock-.html" target="blank">Tahquitz</a> was an obvious choice. With its high quality granite Tahquitz is like a mini-Tuolumne Meadows a mere 2 hours from our house. I had picked out the classic 7-pitch 5.9, <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/292860/whodunit.html" target="blank">Whodunit</a>, knowing full well that we might be waiting in line. The route was first climbed as an aid route (5.8, A1) in 1957 by <a href="http://www.yosemiteclimbing.org/category/image-galleries/joe-fitschen" target="blank">Joe Fitschen</a> and <a href="http://www.yosemiteclimbing.org/content/tom-frost-joe-fitschen-and-royal-robbins-bivy" target="blank">Royal Robbins</a>, then in 1966 freed by <a href="http://www.tomhiggins.net/" target="blank">Tom Higgins</a> and <a href="http://www.bobkamps.com/" target="blank">Bob Kamps</a>.<br /><br />We got a relatively late start for our endeavor, leaving the house at 7:30 am. In retrospect, barring a 4:30 am departure, we made the right choice. The group of 3 in front of us had apparently arrived much earlier only to sit and wait in line for an extended time behind several other p</span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguOKkRr-BS_hg-4FTt83Wj03T8mTTHIVkrheH2Hb4k5zSkwzGDk76FPJcqohxzCnxGEnxHjRUKRyiv8OF9mJ5ppiAYf6i_ibDVGiKuxk1w1TEy_K972GDAfX5dv93UeDmG9WE_LgHlryY/s1600-h/whodunit+017.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguOKkRr-BS_hg-4FTt83Wj03T8mTTHIVkrheH2Hb4k5zSkwzGDk76FPJcqohxzCnxGEnxHjRUKRyiv8OF9mJ5ppiAYf6i_ibDVGiKuxk1w1TEy_K972GDAfX5dv93UeDmG9WE_LgHlryY/s200/whodunit+017.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5340366951036602818" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">arties. Nevertheless, it was frustrating to watch them refuse to start a pitch until the follower had left the belay above. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">It wasn't like they were flying up the rock and for some reason there was </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">always a 15+ minute delay from the time </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">their leader(s) yelled "off belay" to when they were ready for the others to start following. To top it off one of the guys was a fairly new leader so that took eve</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">n longer. I guess it could have been worse; it </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">was a pleasant 75F and we spent our time lounging on pristine granite cliffs.</span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHpjwqexpEhSBJ5b-rAri87BJLM7yCptW5QJRiAqrc22NOJKVRbSrpGrM4F3FPokxHYxpEUWc-tQ9OAfT_7cMI25N6S-zXHW8jpSTM9L6RQlyhSEB48JcAsCmMJC-lqtGPfwCmqkHtlZQ/s1600-h/whodunit+023.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHpjwqexpEhSBJ5b-rAri87BJLM7yCptW5QJRiAqrc22NOJKVRbSrpGrM4F3FPokxHYxpEUWc-tQ9OAfT_7cMI25N6S-zXHW8jpSTM9L6RQlyhSEB48JcAsCmMJC-lqtGPfwCmqkHtlZQ/s200/whodunit+023.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5340369187023066466" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br />The first crux was on pitch 1 and entailed pulling an overlap on a very thin finger crack with friction holds for feet. For once I was thankful to have small fingers/hands and with that I was lucky to get in an occasional finger lock. The set of TCUs that Jas</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">cha bought me for </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">my birthday came in handy. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">I didn't attempt any heroics like using only passive gear. Unfortunately, we weren't able to link pitches 1 and 2 because the parties above us refused to do so.<br /></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">The next pitch transitioned from slab to dihedral and brought us to a cushy ledge below the chimney, where we sat waiting for at least 45 minutes. To pass the time we watched another party of 3 on The Consolation (also 5.9), and from whom we learned the </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7B2KdPhOpLYWf8b0vJhygRsJusjEussUNCnoVxtiEMfcJMpH6y0WcnJ9Ig3neOYrx0dU8K-QJOdbV5yGs8Fzay0VGdzaQMyEHEsHBeZ864wuObnqb997MK4m9iD1oMsuNH3y178q7n4k/s1600-h/whodunit+032.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7B2KdPhOpLYWf8b0vJhygRsJusjEussUNCnoVxtiEMfcJMpH6y0WcnJ9Ig3neOYrx0dU8K-QJOdbV5yGs8Fzay0VGdzaQMyEHEsHBeZ864wuObnqb997MK4m9iD1oMsuNH3y178q7n4k/s200/whodunit+032.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5340372022352917570" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">classy phrase "Shut your whore mouth." Despite looking sketchy, the soloist we had seen earlier on The Long Route (I think) pulled through and was now far out of our view.<br /><br />Finally, it was our turn for the chimney, which I knew held an awkward 5.9 "mental crux" to exit the combo chimney/roof. Fortunately, there was a comfy stem leading up to it. I managed to get a good nut placement to protect the exit move (so much more satisfying tha</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">n a cam). At first glance the move looked improbable. It involved reaching way behind </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">for an offwidth, thankfully made easier by a wide stem. The next set of moves weren't exactly confidence inspiring but I made it up to the next belay without a fall. I was </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy2tXrgsLcJ4qXQTP-Ho0OKwyx6_knV1vfmAqmQ0zOhcyUULewP6w5adLTTMG5mQOA0O2mmMJ7GrKSClviBaVzzGcjN2JimO2UvF74xrwhyB8xqtn1XMuKBRX6IW-LOS9_i5tioN_PQdI/s1600-h/whodunit+028.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy2tXrgsLcJ4qXQTP-Ho0OKwyx6_knV1vfmAqmQ0zOhcyUULewP6w5adLTTMG5mQOA0O2mmMJ7GrKSClviBaVzzGcjN2JimO2UvF74xrwhyB8xqtn1XMuKBRX6IW-LOS9_i5tioN_PQdI/s200/whodunit+028.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5340378909487834114" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">entertained by Jascha's grimaces as he approached the anchor.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">The next pitch started off with parallel cracks which offered the choice of a hand or a finger crack. I alternated between them. At the top I wasn't sure which way to go and opted for a somewhat sketchy traverse to a small pillar. Jascha yelled up to me that he saw something red fly by; I had a strong suspicion that it was either my Omega Link cam or my C4 Camalot. When Jascha arrived I realized that I had lost my ~1 year old C4, which must have come unclipped from my gear slip when I was leaning against the left side of the dihedral. I was most annoyed when I realized that I had just missed the last round of gear sales and was looking at ~$65 full price to replace it.<br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQkn4qx99S3wqO1NCaUMuAAzOnSRREDDhNpvRRLHA9OIMVNMp9inaGIlAI-qDdf2OWZPBFKYGR_z1npNZvWy5pxpHoSVO58A2zFaYcZ9kQOjjMnjsjoSKI9Os8GaCZneyb0eWFbKsYBoY/s1600-h/whodunit+044.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQkn4qx99S3wqO1NCaUMuAAzOnSRREDDhNpvRRLHA9OIMVNMp9inaGIlAI-qDdf2OWZPBFKYGR_z1npNZvWy5pxpHoSVO58A2zFaYcZ9kQOjjMnjsjoSKI9Os8GaCZneyb0eWFbKsYBoY/s200/whodunit+044.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5340381731298303554" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">I was starting to realize that all of the pitches so far were fairly sustained at 5.7+. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Pitch 5 was no exception and provided me with a tenuous reach for a sort of jug. After having my foot slip off once I reset my nut to reduce the potential of decking on the ledge below.</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"> Once again we caught up with the party of 3. I figured we had another 2+ pitches ahead of us, but was pleased to learn that the piton marking the last 5.8 section was just above us. I ran the rope out just below the summit, so when Jascha </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH_-LO_3Z18EaSlxrJIDHckpa8ldXucgjuSv9XNIiBFubov9YcoXITQSK-5s8a9FpEFh2oFp_gVUuJVPyiI8q6mEEOOKurUC_rALBbpvRTv_PeiVxZAI1jHdYdqz-9EdE6gjL2Pu6PGJA/s1600-h/whodunit+034.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH_-LO_3Z18EaSlxrJIDHckpa8ldXucgjuSv9XNIiBFubov9YcoXITQSK-5s8a9FpEFh2oFp_gVUuJVPyiI8q6mEEOOKurUC_rALBbpvRTv_PeiVxZAI1jHdYdqz-9EdE6gjL2Pu6PGJA/s200/whodunit+034.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5340384526517839058" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">arrived I had him lead the final friction slab section. We made it on top ~7 pm, >7 hours after we started (we usually </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">average 30 min per pitch for almost full rope length pitches). Oh well.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">We picked up my pack and made it back to the car in time to watch all of the Idyllwild restaurants close. All in all it was a stellar route, and we're anxiously looking forward to a repeat trip on a less crowded day.<br /></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /><br /></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /></span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /><br /><br /><br /></span></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-89711775703689932122009-04-11T07:42:00.001-07:002009-04-11T09:12:12.482-07:00close encounters with the fowl<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF20OEAbu3l9IgTb9Rvc79pMFt5PgX2ZyVGrbIh1aw46Uq3-nmokxUKix66UV0aoQqiKop_TLaaDqGOS-45Jo0sOgkvmz9cnvlhAIQ0TEvLUd2X3m35EGczAcXtSY2sQGHXbRCNjEKN1E/s1600-h/delaware-rooster.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 162px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF20OEAbu3l9IgTb9Rvc79pMFt5PgX2ZyVGrbIh1aw46Uq3-nmokxUKix66UV0aoQqiKop_TLaaDqGOS-45Jo0sOgkvmz9cnvlhAIQ0TEvLUd2X3m35EGczAcXtSY2sQGHXbRCNjEKN1E/s200/delaware-rooster.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5323444324861179170" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">In early February I ended my planned 12+ month corporate hiatus a few months early after landing a technical project manager job in the Enterprise Architecture group of yellowpages.com, thanks to a referral from <a href="http://ultramaniacs.com/" target="blank">Andy</a>. Three weeks later Jascha and I started moving into a rental house in the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highland_Park,_Los_Angeles,_California" target="blank">Highland Park</a> neighborhood of Los Angeles. Initially it seemed like a great find - dark hardwood floors, two bedrooms (one for gear storage) with a spacious living area, plus a kitchen with a ton of counter space, garden space, on a dead-end road, and most importantly, biking distance to work. This would be my first permanent dwelling since placing most of my belongings in storage and leaving for Bishop last April.<br /><br />Then came the dark clouds. To our horror we started hearing crowing coming from what seemed like our backyard starting around 6a. I was unable to go back to sleep once they started, and to top it off I started having problems going to sleep at night. Great, this is exactly what I needed for my new job. Let me state for the record that although their brains are the size of peas, I don't mind chickens. In fact, I kind of like them. Any visit to the <a href="http://www.tricountyfair.com/" target="blank">Tri-County Fair</a> merits a requisite stop at the chicken pens. I even recently owned a book on chicken breeds. This, however, is a far cry from living next door to roosters. </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr7-ilZWtzYHh6uEvtfsleoLnvl9YfXlxBAezkxZgvx8129-Iqywi3gNrRuBHl-1v4c5knteddTPtWj6ik14cWW94rTO_4O5sqSioSM6csQdsUCebZCakX0E7eRmyjl0zYE788WIXWzTM/s1600-h/house1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr7-ilZWtzYHh6uEvtfsleoLnvl9YfXlxBAezkxZgvx8129-Iqywi3gNrRuBHl-1v4c5knteddTPtWj6ik14cWW94rTO_4O5sqSioSM6csQdsUCebZCakX0E7eRmyjl0zYE788WIXWzTM/s200/house1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5323445288410082034" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br />I went online and learned that L.A. does not have a law banning roosters, only one that states they must be <a href="http://articles.latimes.com/2008/may/25/local/me-rooster25" target="blank">maintained</a> at least 100 feet from a neighboring dwelling. Walking to </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">t</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">he back of our yard it was clear the roosters were no more than 35 feet from our bedroom. I also read that people's complaints to Animal Control often go unanswered, so I had no expectations of a resolution. Upon emailing my landlord she told me that she was aware that there were roosters before we moved in, but she "did not think they were a problem". I was furious because had we known about the roosters we would not have moved in, but to give her credit she was willing to help.<br /><br />We both started calling Animal Control on 2 March. The initial complaints trigger a letter to the address with a 15 day warning to remove the animals. I followed up periodically (each time having to call back repeatedly to get through and/or waiting on hold for up to ten minutes) and around day 10 they agreed to send out an officer the next day to issue a verbal warning. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">The start of daylight savings time and the lengthening days only exacerbated the issue. The first crows would start sometimes as early as 3:40a. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Two days later I called back. They initially claimed the officer had gone to the address and had removed the roosters. I said that was interesting because I heard them the day after they were supposedly removed. </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhME-ZK7a-Kd9lQ9wK6Jh1LayYJzXEdHbHD4icfaX_jYUsQ99gIbtLu94PXVrjKYH0f5nf8aHUfwXUr6tZItaZpjDZ8mO4GZJZNcletXKtkHy16SbJzMwXY-xNI8PP5FzHSEv6X5fgEAC8/s1600-h/rooster_003.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhME-ZK7a-Kd9lQ9wK6Jh1LayYJzXEdHbHD4icfaX_jYUsQ99gIbtLu94PXVrjKYH0f5nf8aHUfwXUr6tZItaZpjDZ8mO4GZJZNcletXKtkHy16SbJzMwXY-xNI8PP5FzHSEv6X5fgEAC8/s200/rooster_003.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5323456025876876978" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Next they told me we had provided the wrong address and no roosters were present, and if they send someone out again and don't find any roosters we had no recourse. A fine </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">example of your tax dollars hard at work.<br /><br />Thoroughly annoyed I rode my bike home from work, grabbed my camera, climbed through the back fence and took photos of the beasts. There were also maybe a dozen hens loose in the yard, quietly clucking away. I drove over to animal control with a letter containing a printout of my photos and a map of the address. I wrote that the hens were not of concern. At this point I considered finding another place to live until the situation was resolved. Thankfully Jascha went to Austin for 9 days and didn't have to deal with my insomnia-induced stress.<br /><br />Finally Animal Control came out on 17 March and issued a two-day warning. My landlord met me at the house and her boyfriend went by to talk to the owners, who agreed they would "be finding homes for the roosters". I could see light at the end of the tunnel</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">. Three days later we were unable to get through to Animal Control. That evening I arrived home from work to find them still there. I was supposed to go to climbing at Joshua Tree with <a href="http://belayx.blogspot.com/" target="blank">Dave</a> that weekend, but I was so exhausted I could barely think and I didn't think it would be a good idea to be leading trad.<br /><br />Monday my landlord and I both attempted to call Animal Control, but found that they was another of the days they don't bother to answer the phones. On Tuesday she went by and spoke to one of the officers to confirm that they would pay a return visit that week. Wednesday evening (22 days from our initial call to Animal Control) I returned home to find the roosters still there, but much to my amazement there were no crows on Thursday morning. Once again I crawled back through the fence and saw that the coops and all chickens had been removed. I didn't see any signs of a massive slaughter, so I figured they all found new homes. I wasn't sure why the hens were also removed, but I wasn't going to worry about it.<br /><br />It took me another few weeks to mostly kick the insomnia. Yesterday morning I awoke to find a lone hen in our driveway of the same breed as I found in the neighbor's backyard. I had no idea where the hens were now living. Jascha helped me corner it and I picked it up and walked down the street toward the rooster house. Their gate was locked. A man in old Toyota van saw me and rolled down his window. He looked interested in the hen, so I handed it to him. He put it on his lap and drove off.<br /></span></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-89474424394184168832009-01-27T18:19:00.000-08:002009-01-28T10:31:22.161-08:00delusional ultra thoughts<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHhuuzzPx6LcwcpF3-nStc8aCVZqMH5u9jQj39AzfEA0JtLJjxegacJiiUkt0aDxf9391zc-sMzGYZx8AwQG4LKFakBZtedG6-3RQykWKG5Fzu9fdvtWbflgutlGY_yhcMY_ZfX7YH4pU/s1600-h/lowe_27jan09+019.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHhuuzzPx6LcwcpF3-nStc8aCVZqMH5u9jQj39AzfEA0JtLJjxegacJiiUkt0aDxf9391zc-sMzGYZx8AwQG4LKFakBZtedG6-3RQykWKG5Fzu9fdvtWbflgutlGY_yhcMY_ZfX7YH4pU/s200/lowe_27jan09+019.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5296164996000271730" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >It's that time of year again when I start obsessing about my various outdoor goals for the year. I've already gone under the knife once for running-related injuries and I still have occasional hip tendonitis, but I enjoy grueling hill climbs and technical downhills. Naturally my thoughts turn to racing again. Having a bunch of very encouraging ultrarunner friends doesn't help. My thought train is somewhat along the lines of: <span style="font-style: italic;">Maybe I could just do 50Ks, but I used to do 50Ks as training runs. I could probably do an occasional 50M. It's training for </span><a style="font-style: italic;" href="http://ac100.com/" target="blank">AC100</a><span style="font-style: italic;"> that did me in. Or, I could the low mileage plan. </span>It's a slippery slope.<br /><br />At any rate I promised myself I wouldn't jeopardize my climbing pursuits by trashing myself running, so to kick off my new plan (and last few days of occupational free agent status) </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >I decided to do a "short" run in the San Gabriels. Jascha and I had tried to do this ~14 mile loop (with at least 3700' of gain) before but got rained out. The run/hike starts and ends at Lake Avenue in Pasadena and follows <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sam_Merrill_Trail" target="blank">Sam Merrill trail</a> up and over Echo Mtn. to Mt. Lowe, which once housed a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Lowe_Railway" target="blank">tramway</a>. </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFAdySDFbtJky2OxcfRRVnkeB_crTwmPtHBoHQzelfVERv8iCsBgT-0uFAas8_cU1EQ0ycy-4mxW1dI0ccp8md4i-kXWbZj11UFnJUsX1wL-mzbGLb3b6FF25Anbzu22BRcaT5Y5R-egI/s1600-h/lowe_27jan09+059.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFAdySDFbtJky2OxcfRRVnkeB_crTwmPtHBoHQzelfVERv8iCsBgT-0uFAas8_cU1EQ0ycy-4mxW1dI0ccp8md4i-kXWbZj11UFnJUsX1wL-mzbGLb3b6FF25Anbzu22BRcaT5Y5R-egI/s200/lowe_27jan09+059.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5296171917996475474" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >I've been on middle Sam Merrill several times previously, as it's part of the AC100 course, and it's one of my favorite local trails. Unfortunately, Jascha couldn't join me this time because of work and affliction with an intestinal flu, which we will blame on Pez & Pezlet <a href="http://belayx.blogspot.com/" target="blank">Hansen</a> ;), who were both recovering from the flu during our Sunday visit.<br /><br />I made good time on lower Sam Merrill, despite getting passed by 2 guys who were running to Echo Mtn. and back. The skies were clear and sparkling blue and I recognized the tree under which we huddled during the downpour and the spot where we'd previously turned around on middle Sam Merrill. It was a bit chilly in the forested section (one of my favorites) that passes several granite outcroppings. I wondered if part of the reason I like this section is that it marks the end of the climb out of Idlehour on the AC100 course that seems to go on forever, known by some as the longest 3 miles you'll ever do. At the junction with the Mt. Lowe I stopped to assist a guy </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >(with a topo map) who mistakenly thought he was at Markham Saddle, then headed over the the Mt. Lowe loop.<br /><br />I took the E trail first and passed several patches of trail that were dusted with snow. The top of Mt. Lowe has some </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-NEn9sFHRdSAoDUfQeWC1R2B60bBCJhQamZW8dvXu4rlMchIaQbZV23My0hGW9tfXzfhwteH92JKSSBlSKYG8IuthUHvtu1CkPUO9NMh6obxIzY_Gp9JduqmgapkLjxj3LNA9m7aNJE/s1600-h/lowe_27jan09+050.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-NEn9sFHRdSAoDUfQeWC1R2B60bBCJhQamZW8dvXu4rlMchIaQbZV23My0hGW9tfXzfhwteH92JKSSBlSKYG8IuthUHvtu1CkPUO9NMh6obxIzY_Gp9JduqmgapkLjxj3LNA9m7aNJE/s200/lowe_27jan09+050.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5296167665287881794" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >remnants of the old railway, including a collection of peak location aids. I could clearly see Mt. Baldy in the background. On the 7 mile descent I took the W trail to complete my loop. It was a fun downhill with some rocky sections. I backtracked on Sam Merrill (a most excellent descent) to Lake. I look forward to many repeats.<br /></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-4042405963938530372009-01-08T09:53:00.001-08:002009-01-20T21:11:18.463-08:00cutting our losses<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAdEjbLYP3QSJVU5OxwaqYEiRHbDWc-M6XeDvL9XfSW_o4GeAOL70g-JkdtuWJIhzHr3jIVbKiFO2BWYkn20L5q2j2LHISzrylMFQ02ec6GmzB6021kfj6tm9cvZbLAWbsU3nZKXAlVBA/s1600-h/chiang_mai-025.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAdEjbLYP3QSJVU5OxwaqYEiRHbDWc-M6XeDvL9XfSW_o4GeAOL70g-JkdtuWJIhzHr3jIVbKiFO2BWYkn20L5q2j2LHISzrylMFQ02ec6GmzB6021kfj6tm9cvZbLAWbsU3nZKXAlVBA/s200/chiang_mai-025.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293559607912154290" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Two months into our planned 3 month trip to India and SE Asia we were having difficulties entertaining ourselves. We missed the varied climbing and trails back home, and the steep limestone sport routes on friable rock weren't cutting it. Initially we had hopes that each new city/country would be different, but instead we found similar temples, similar food, and similar people preying on the tourists. We still had Vietnam and Myanmar to go, but we were doubtful we would find anything different. Just before Christmas I started having insomnia. When we finally admitted to each other that we were bored out of our minds it was a relief.<br /><br />Now we had to figure out our options. In my usual style I drew out a flow chart with the pros, cons and tasks associated with </span></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCRT4skSSUvGnbGa-EWtgnJV4UvD0zXtu-Hx6AFscSxhy5c1_1B6t_pgYkIJ_PzpNRDImIHgF8Kj4c_Hp_mxCUInkD3QhyphenhyphenEKj24slPaMuTEpztzGhO0dF9pNQDsy87MbtGvxAiMv_fZX8/s1600-h/chiang_mai-026.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCRT4skSSUvGnbGa-EWtgnJV4UvD0zXtu-Hx6AFscSxhy5c1_1B6t_pgYkIJ_PzpNRDImIHgF8Kj4c_Hp_mxCUInkD3QhyphenhyphenEKj24slPaMuTEpztzGhO0dF9pNQDsy87MbtGvxAiMv_fZX8/s200/chiang_mai-026.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293559733940272898" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">each of the paths. We conte</span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">mplated skipping Myanmar </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">and heading back to Vang Vieng to </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">help the locals rebolt one of the walls or heading home to </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">climb at <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/171112/red-rocks.html" target="blank">Red Rocks</a> or <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/151605/joshua-tree-national-park.html" target="blank">J-tree</a>. I drew out a matrix of what cost we were willing to bear if we could get back to the States at various intervals preceding our original return date (6 Feb). I had purchased return tickets online and we were getting the runaround from our S Korea-based airlines (Asiana) about the ability to change the ticket and whether they would issue a refund. It didn't help that we couldn't get a hold of the online booking service because of the New Year's holiday. Finally we managed to get most of our </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Asiana ticket refunded (or at least a promised refund) and for a few hundred dollars more a flight home on ANA in less than a week.<br /></span></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Once we got back to L.A. we spent two days adjusting to the time change and pulling together our </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">climbing gear. Then we hopped in the car and headed off to Red Rocks with </span></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiveYUJx0NnedILtMrKcNulr9S7P4_zrjCS8A6XUZ1uw1cjxr_laeVUZvXvx4A0-Zgw26-AsiUYdXMUdGBmmU2juCYgYiIZq8U03GSv__IqF6tpOVsUMMO6if-kSgCmk5SQms3Nj2yRtgc/s1600-h/rr_jan09+026.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 148px; height: 198px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiveYUJx0NnedILtMrKcNulr9S7P4_zrjCS8A6XUZ1uw1cjxr_laeVUZvXvx4A0-Zgw26-AsiUYdXMUdGBmmU2juCYgYiIZq8U03GSv__IqF6tpOVsUMMO6if-kSgCmk5SQms3Nj2yRtgc/s200/rr_jan09+026.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293560565827094690" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">spring-like temps predicted. I </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">felt </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">like crap for the first 2 days with my jet lag and preceding weeks of insomnia, but on the </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">third day we set off for <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/156258/olive-oil-plus.html" target="blank">Olive Oil</a>. After an inadvertent detour on the approach we ended </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">up at the base of the route </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">behind Robyn and Mike. Robyn is one of the few lucky individuals to have found regular employment in Bishop. It was nice to be on towering sandstone again. The first part </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">of the route was uneventful although I overshot the 4th belay and had to downclimb to the ledge. The next pitch had a </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">long chimney. As it narrowed I had to climb the neighboring face to </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">get through with my pack. We took in the views before heading down the descent trail.</span></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br />The next </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">climb we did was a link-up between <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/156322/johnny-vegas.html" target="blank">Johnny Vegas</a> and <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/156328/solar-slab.html" target="blank">Solar Slab</a>. Together they</span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"> make up 9-11 pitches (depending on where you set your belays), but (as we found out the hard way) with its rope eating cracks and edges it sucks up precious winter daylight. Solar</span></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz7jyRPTTRkbm2HAFVIJskumTCIMzPqZHzPTX7zqUUg8z796GX7NepDn8xwFH3LEDJf3P_6R3JbroFRR4BuvZ3JeJB2Lic85xsasBfL1celZDJm6dEIZ5TI4wy5XPfkBrhi2mIyXY1d-8/s1600-h/rr_jan09+030.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz7jyRPTTRkbm2HAFVIJskumTCIMzPqZHzPTX7zqUUg8z796GX7NepDn8xwFH3LEDJf3P_6R3JbroFRR4BuvZ3JeJB2Lic85xsasBfL1celZDJm6dEIZ5TI4wy5XPfkBrhi2mIyXY1d-8/s200/rr_jan09+030.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293599645868222690" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"> Slab was old school 5.6, in contrast to the more modern (easy for the grade) routes we'd been doing. We</span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"> ended up skipping the </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">final pitch of Solar Slab when the route became </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">shaded and a frigid wind picked up. This was fortunate, as our rope became stuck multiple</span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"> times and I had to do some somewhat </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">sketchy soloing to remediate </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">the </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">situation. We </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">ended up at the bottom of the route just as total darkness fell.<br /></span></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">The next day we caught up with Masa and Chris at <a href="http://www.yelp.com/biz/pho-kim-long-las-vegas" target="blank">Kim Pho Long</a>, who were visiting from Vancouver, B.C. They were unsympathetic to our whining about the cold, although they too had rope issues on their descent. They were planning to return the next day to extract their rope from the first pitch. Masa was originally supposed to accompany us on our Enfield tour, but hadn't received permission from India's tourism department to write up the story for a Canadian magazine. We filled them in on our Asia adventures. Jascha had </span></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzQTfhsDgLACwvnJTqurk8DBITYH3cN7KCBqi0dNByXVivmHGm5a86HmlVMXq0hxq9cCDelaIQ1hqqJH77hKH60dlQqJRZgdG-Jgjr1SZSioORADuEAljmOwQuu09M3l4_JAAW5h_pXyo/s1600-h/rr_jan09+071.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzQTfhsDgLACwvnJTqurk8DBITYH3cN7KCBqi0dNByXVivmHGm5a86HmlVMXq0hxq9cCDelaIQ1hqqJH77hKH60dlQqJRZgdG-Jgjr1SZSioORADuEAljmOwQuu09M3l4_JAAW5h_pXyo/s200/rr_jan09+071.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293592485817221154" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">booked us at the posh <a href="http://www.palmsplace.com/" target="blank">Palms Place</a> for a few nights as a belated b-day present for me, a far cry from my undergrad days of shivering in a tent at the old Red Rocks campground.<br /><br />Next on our list was <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/396543/birdland-5-7-5-pitches.html" target="blank">Birdland</a>, the same route that had eaten Masa's and Chris'. With our 70m rope the route went quickly. The 5.7+ final finger crack on the last pitch was particularly choice. We were also </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">fortunate to spend the last few pitches and entire rap watching a herd of 5 female bighorn sheep who weren't particularly disturbed by our presence. They remained near the base of the route even after we finished our rappel.<br /></span></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">I decided to do something a bit harder, so we set our sites on <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/393271/armatron-5-9-6-pitches.html" target="blank">Armatron</a>, a route on the </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">somewhat remote (N) Brownstone Wall, known for unique tile-like rock formations. I was </span></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDD2foNrBBI6QlWE3zW722tUVb5lyZkVg5znb9uZaz43MIqAIkV17lIDrE7ePSsPzbGdIFNqnIK2K3A8p8PyAVZoyvXNTqvyAGoyQm4oBOv17iOqdGHkvXK3bG7Jj-ZUZFHGPX1TDz_jc/s1600-h/rr_jan09+104.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDD2foNrBBI6QlWE3zW722tUVb5lyZkVg5znb9uZaz43MIqAIkV17lIDrE7ePSsPzbGdIFNqnIK2K3A8p8PyAVZoyvXNTqvyAGoyQm4oBOv17iOqdGHkvXK3bG7Jj-ZUZFHGPX1TDz_jc/s200/rr_jan09+104.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293602939990271858" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">a bit worried when we left the car at 9:20a, but we shaved 20 minutes off the lower </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">estimated approach time on our topo. There was another party on Rainbow Wall and one on Cat Scratch Fever (S Brownstone Wall). We received our introduction to t</span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">he tiles on the bolted first pitch. The crux came early on the second pitch. The finger crack preceding it took bomber nut placements and the crux itself (a thin traverse to another crack system) was </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">protected by a bolt. The next two pitches were almost exclusively on the tiles and I doddled trying to find the infrequent solid nut placements. Technically the route ends </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">after pitch 4, but it is recommended that you do the final pitches of Requiem for a Tadpole then top out on <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150883/juniper-peak.html" target="blank">Juniper </a></span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><a href="http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150883/juniper-peak.html" target="blank">Peak</a>. This has the added advantage of a quick walk-off descent. Even though I was trying to exclusively use nuts for pro, I happily used one of the new TCUs Jascha bought me for my b-day at the last belay. We found a fun exposed class 4 traverse just below the summit and topped out. After locating the correct gully (the cairns had likely fallen during the last snowstorm) we headed down. The </span></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpbC0CTzX_tLrzuqv1MZjCARK2RZ92EvxnB6nnyoJXvil-UEkK3_6fEYJAa9-gsav48X1NZJPoCEx1PST4lzfL3UVdGpKeXUm17isv-wTWLvNPXtXjV4SwTbvlypxnAEnrvL8Xod3BEHw/s1600-h/rr_jan09+109.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpbC0CTzX_tLrzuqv1MZjCARK2RZ92EvxnB6nnyoJXvil-UEkK3_6fEYJAa9-gsav48X1NZJPoCEx1PST4lzfL3UVdGpKeXUm17isv-wTWLvNPXtXjV4SwTbvlypxnAEnrvL8Xod3BEHw/s200/rr_jan09+109.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293603863978960850" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">party on Cat Scratch Fever looked like they might be at it still as darkness fell, but they didn't appear distressed. I was happy that we were heading down in the daylight </span></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">as there were still patches of ice on the approach slabs.<br /><br />I had a job interview in a few days back in L.A., so we got in one last day of climbing in Calico Basin. I'm not exactly back in sport climbing condition, so I picked out Ultraman Wall for its 5.8-5.9 runout slab climbs (which Jerry Handren categorizes as mixed routes b/c they are "too runout to be sport climbs"). They did not disappoint, especially Speedracer, a 140' 5.8+ with ~17 feet between bolts requiring multiple moves off of tiny slopers. We had a fairly lazy last day aside from our worked fingertips. It was nice to be once again be home.<br /></span></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitmKPEDZFosxYT2mAgZla4hp0zmZi6h-xVw5dIPoPEkCVQ1nGvandlpdE5IUGYoltIQs6BeGDi0txrCMVfeC6AX1uBnmYXdqQOn1ccG6J_D6-Xls8hRhyphenhyphenOuKlEfaZNWeYFDdnqOZfTbV0/s1600-h/rr_jan09+116.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitmKPEDZFosxYT2mAgZla4hp0zmZi6h-xVw5dIPoPEkCVQ1nGvandlpdE5IUGYoltIQs6BeGDi0txrCMVfeC6AX1uBnmYXdqQOn1ccG6J_D6-Xls8hRhyphenhyphenOuKlEfaZNWeYFDdnqOZfTbV0/s200/rr_jan09+116.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293605219363556226" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /></span></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span></span></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-69208667687054708712008-12-29T01:34:00.000-08:002008-12-30T03:30:39.379-08:00back on the sharp end<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">After a few uneventful days in Vientiane, the tiny capitol of Laos, we</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"> caught the decrepit locals’ bus,</span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcVEL60rpCvXyrngYp0J_rAXA3RwUnXd-59nfinqbSaGftEVtiZOqFZj75kxGhc0Tt2lGBoipKkZP7ZzuR6lYBVIv_b2HZg5HwVvp1zEXozxP3nhSbe2h_994RqQAw-kEmmQ0Ezt_Oy2g/s1600-h/vang-vieng-020.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285145103495324178" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcVEL60rpCvXyrngYp0J_rAXA3RwUnXd-59nfinqbSaGftEVtiZOqFZj75kxGhc0Tt2lGBoipKkZP7ZzuR6lYBVIv_b2HZg5HwVvp1zEXozxP3nhSbe2h_994RqQAw-kEmmQ0Ezt_Oy2g/s200/vang-vieng-020.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"> </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">along with five bags of pig feed, several stacks of carved railing, and 2 chickens, bus to Vang Vieng. On the bus a youngish looking man handed Jascha his HIV test results, which were written in English, and looked at </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">him quizzically. Jascha tried to tell him the results were good, which he didn’t understand. I grabbed my Lao phrasebook and told him several times in my feeble Lao sans intonation, “Jow </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">bor mee HIV (You no have HIV).” Although he nodded, I’m not sure if he understood, and </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">I lacked the </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKhmLr6DnJAVz06k6W5MhQ080C2n7XLfrEQllxcCM9w-WlqTj2cJMIMionzy0Daj30ZwVxtPfumwfOix62xkO6Ie6AqDeDxB3ioFOBBaFLY89FcPw7HrmqNxnpdGssdYRrZJfplKFObow/s1600-h/laos-008.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285145528625911250" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKhmLr6DnJAVz06k6W5MhQ080C2n7XLfrEQllxcCM9w-WlqTj2cJMIMionzy0Daj30ZwVxtPfumwfOix62xkO6Ie6AqDeDxB3ioFOBBaFLY89FcPw7HrmqNxnpdGssdYRrZJfplKFObow/s200/laos-008.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">vocabulary to state the correct inte</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">rpretation, namely: “The results indicate that you do not have detectable antibo</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">dies to HIV. This could either mea</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">n you do not have HIV or that your exposure was recent enough for you not to have sufficient antibodies to HIV at the moment. If you think you have been potentially exposed to HIV (e.g. through unprotected sex or needle sharing) then you should get tested again at three months from the date of exposure to confirm your status. For the future results to be </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">accurate, in the interim you will need to eliminate any potential exposures (e.g. through the use of condoms or using clean needles).” Oh well.</span></span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2QlJjqEnVFsWCwOiiayPnnlnhLsKahoHKEnAymVzIBTMPXwhFd07S4YMl_osifz5xThNeL2Uob2e1YO9lSeqojtYoO4DqYcxGcRw-HaVkOrCbVKG_T9EsSr5JkpWTRkx0aZd0lPmdKro/s1600-h/vang-vieng-002.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285146617522675490" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2QlJjqEnVFsWCwOiiayPnnlnhLsKahoHKEnAymVzIBTMPXwhFd07S4YMl_osifz5xThNeL2Uob2e1YO9lSeqojtYoO4DqYcxGcRw-HaVkOrCbVKG_T9EsSr5JkpWTRkx0aZd0lPmdKro/s200/vang-vieng-002.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Vang Vieng is touted as the “adventure destination” in Laos. If by </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">adventure you mean rope swings </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">and tubing down the river </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">from bar to bar then this is your place. The streets are choked with load</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">, drunken Euros, Aussies, and Americans and the bars in town </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">televisions blare episode after episode of obnoxious sit-coms, like Friends. We came here to check out the climbing areas.</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;">The local shop informed us that the area we </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">had chosen from our guidebook, Tham Nam Them, was supposedly closed due to corroded bolts, and advised us to go to the popular Sleeping Wall instead. We rented gear from them for $35 (shoes, harnesses, belay device, chalk bag, rope, climbing pack, and rope bag). </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Amazingly they had size 15 shoes for Jascha.<br /><br /></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">The following day we headed over to the climbing area unsure of what we would find.</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;">We shared a tuk-tuk with a bunch of women who were taking the climbing class. It took a while to get everyone rounded up and into the vehicle, then at our stop we had to wait to get a boat to shuttle us a </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">across the river. The main climbing area sits behind one of the many riverside bars set up for the tubing crowd and it didn’t take long for some frat boy types to arrive.</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3K3tX6wN7dR51jCHYBMRbBFFaDhfTxKkzbsJC-hBLNLmqT3lVn8sOhxOl8efaTB9-qq-T9ValGTdYqPDU4w3SVt6yyeKlv8Po0bkdtJbHudvirdZbfU9EMihZMYK_Kx6AJvSPhpIQDUM/s1600-h/vang-vieng-010.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285148020198479106" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3K3tX6wN7dR51jCHYBMRbBFFaDhfTxKkzbsJC-hBLNLmqT3lVn8sOhxOl8efaTB9-qq-T9ValGTdYqPDU4w3SVt6yyeKlv8Po0bkdtJbHudvirdZbfU9EMihZMYK_Kx6AJvSPhpIQDUM/s200/vang-vieng-010.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Once across the river we decided to hit the moderate Secret Canyon, </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">as we hadn’t climbed in over 2 months and we weren’t certain of how the ratings would compare. We headed off down one of the narrow trails into the jungle and before long came to the area. The 5.10s felt easy with the exception of a long route with the overhang just before the anchor where I felt my lack of climbing endurance kick in. The ratings turned out to be as soft as the routes were dirty. Silt covered the less used routes and at </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">times we had to push vines out of our face. The anchors were bolts looped with a ratty piece of climbing rope and a beefy rap ring. At least they were all </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDnsnxk9sKCZzTkS0uunG6aunU5fCYrYusenFY6TyAAwBljy6d1ZtLxTEvooJ-9oM64KI0RwLNjzNb5nAosGyh9CXf1MKmW8O-X0hd6IW5xAQf02hNwyxZfCPBGbUXpcAv5MLf7_Boh2Q/s1600-h/vang-vieng-008.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285149678330373922" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDnsnxk9sKCZzTkS0uunG6aunU5fCYrYusenFY6TyAAwBljy6d1ZtLxTEvooJ-9oM64KI0RwLNjzNb5nAosGyh9CXf1MKmW8O-X0hd6IW5xAQf02hNwyxZfCPBGbUXpcAv5MLf7_Boh2Q/s200/vang-vieng-008.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">equalized. I later asked the guy at the climbing shop why they didn’t </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">use chain anchors and he said the rope was better (likely meaning cheaper and easier to replace).</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /><br />Around 1p we headed over to the main area. One of the guides was leading a route in his flip flops, simultaneously trying to explain to his inexperienced belayer how to use an ATC. We chatted with some Germans who had purchased an entire climbing rack in Krabi. They told us they heard the rock was better in Chiang Mai (where we would be headed in less than a week). As we had read, they confirmed the Krabi pro was suspect with the UV </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2juioY4GdrPdq-HqbCm1Opp1t3YbQU4eMNiMWz4besYX1o5S6BtzjRas0J7UVqaA-HXK1lmVSnphzzXeSDWqJG88Dw7a1Dhgs7AiOBTf-q8SmBtu4312Af7zYsul_PLpSv6J78hR3ok4/s1600-h/vang-vieng-013.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285150333024648050" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: pointer; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2juioY4GdrPdq-HqbCm1Opp1t3YbQU4eMNiMWz4besYX1o5S6BtzjRas0J7UVqaA-HXK1lmVSnphzzXeSDWqJG88Dw7a1Dhgs7AiOBTf-q8SmBtu4312Af7zYsul_PLpSv6J78hR3ok4/s200/vang-vieng-013.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">and salt water damage, but they said they enjoyed being able to lie around on the beach between climbing. I smiled politely; I hate the beach. </span><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /><br />I decided to push my luck and try an 11a, which was a somewhat contrived route linking up some slung handlebar holds and an easier route with a bolted slightly overhung traverse. I should have known better. The holds on the traverse were sharp and not positive. I tried it twice and Jascha tried it once with no luck. In Dave Hansen style I ended up removing my gear except for the first traverse bolt (which freaked out the Germans), traversed below the bolt line and up the easier route to the anchors, clipping only the anchors. It was a bit of a chore, but with Jascha pulling on one of the ropes I was able to swing over on rap to grab the remaining draw. We did a few more routes in Secret Canyon and headed back to the climbing shop with the group. So it wasn’t spectacular climbing on pristine rock, but it was entertaining nevertheless.</span> </span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-44450913716932377332008-12-23T05:36:00.000-08:002008-12-23T06:46:24.968-08:00conquering the loop alpine style<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3nXCy7lQDNyCf-3MlfdSJZOdHEXZUuqH239-cYmsbfnl40NwkdOqs0w6kn2SGP2kvJZzVpniXZAEAyPtdiejixH0WwjrxEB4dsX_EoFpxLfigZJVNn4xhTcCSG-lUCReJm5lq3lzJwx8/s1600-h/tha-khaek-135.jpg"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282981043541306034" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3nXCy7lQDNyCf-3MlfdSJZOdHEXZUuqH239-cYmsbfnl40NwkdOqs0w6kn2SGP2kvJZzVpniXZAEAyPtdiejixH0WwjrxEB4dsX_EoFpxLfigZJVNn4xhTcCSG-lUCReJm5lq3lzJwx8/s200/tha-khaek-135.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">Our second visit to Bangkok brought us to the Siriraj teaching hospital's parasitology, pathology, and forensics museums (special thanks to Paul A. for the recommendation). The exhibit included lovely blown glass models of <em>Giardia lamblia</em> and <em>Plasmodium falciparum</em> (unfortunately photography is not allowed). The forensics museum was delightfully morbid and contained a variety of anatomical specimens, crime scene evidence, and mummified bodies of convicts. A special exhibit was devoted to tsunami victim treatment and forensics, including detailed models of septic wounds and the debridement process.That night, after our Lumpini Park runs, we braved the dirty old man/bar girl area one street over from our hotel to find the nam kao tod lady (sadly absent). The scene was surreal - lady boys and bar girls feigning interest in drunk, unattractive (mostly white) men while Muslim families paid money to feed the captive elephants in </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfnwBnVIeDCUT9mZExD96a57GxrNqB8I0u3IMEezGL-2fbDK2_jP6VYopewkjwDNWNl-HarSEiOIgtqVICWNCT7IOhJ-O5-l4KUk8jwLcd_2Tk8ymXxdTKHWCFnLI0HWnVa1ROZkTWHVU/s1600-h/mukdahan-015.jpg"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282982850818377058" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfnwBnVIeDCUT9mZExD96a57GxrNqB8I0u3IMEezGL-2fbDK2_jP6VYopewkjwDNWNl-HarSEiOIgtqVICWNCT7IOhJ-O5-l4KUk8jwLcd_2Tk8ymXxdTKHWCFnLI0HWnVa1ROZkTWHVU/s200/mukdahan-015.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">front of the massage parlors.</span><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><br /><br /></span><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><p><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">The following morning we caught an early flight to Ubon Ratchathani, then caught a bus to the sleepy Thai/Laos border town of Mukdahan. Our spacious hotel room at the newish Submukdahan Grand Hotel was </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzyA83B2oGE5HSm6xJngOrWuYu15eMx7Rq4emkoq5HnCrYew78oFnibdgskADzXyxnZpAurEOJdTuxBt7czztbpMsTmMyaaI6go7r4TpwDLUjfX5B2E_49pmMzUhcQjUGoiY_2RZdYEE/s1600-h/mukdahan-051.jpg"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282983437476837714" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzyA83B2oGE5HSm6xJngOrWuYu15eMx7Rq4emkoq5HnCrYew78oFnibdgskADzXyxnZpAurEOJdTuxBt7czztbpMsTmMyaaI6go7r4TpwDLUjfX5B2E_49pmMzUhcQjUGoiY_2RZdYEE/s200/mukdahan-051.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">a steal at 500 baht. We lucked out in that our visit coincided with Mukdahan's Red Cross festival. We walked out of our hotel to scores of teenagers performing Thai traditional dances accompanied by a light show, fog machine, and bubbles. The night market was brimming with vendors and behind it was a carnival with rides, a shooting (as in 0.22 caliber) range, lounge singers, and a flashy, <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282983761748970818" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzqBUQpe5XnLPSJsOoqsIwUxJknXPpRwsqYxPf-ilJdSe76uB_838er6K60NELrUWu4uG7xl-P5R2dpGRdeMLmHDb5ju_NWygrwVHY_ET3XuADIAsyJLwvHVj0WoMI4hLALSdaRLOlvPU/s200/mukdahan-032.jpg" border="0" /></span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sparkle_motion" target="blank"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">Sparkle Motion</span></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">esque talent contest.</span></p><br /><div><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">The next morning we left for Savannakhet , Laos, just across the Mekong. From Savannakhet we were blessed with the experience of</span><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"> being one of 19 passengers + 1 driver crammed into a 10 seater van. After a grueling (yet comical) 2 hours we arrived at our destination in Tha Khaek. Our room at the Tha Khaek Travel Lodge was huge, with a palatial bathroom as big as some of our prior hotel </span><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">rooms. We had come to </span><a href="http://wikitravel.org/en/Tha_Khaek" target="blank"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">Tha Khaek</span></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"> like most people to ride "The Loop", a popular 3-4 day motorcycle street/dirt tour popularized in Lonely Planet. </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Y-gyXnNU-qMFhvUsPz1L56tQkKabdVReH3wLvQ7dghb0gZSHDw2ybUaPatSWqoNQSOCzGKUmutHlXCdmcyhigJzajNuusR0vxhN4TXnm9_f2LWsvvg_yDbW1mVU1iIR1VW9T8mBomMA/s1600-h/tha-khaek-072.jpg"></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">Initially I thought we should allocate 2 days for </span><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">the trip, but after reading the trip reports I thought it would be an entertaining challenge to try and do the 360 km ride in a day. In the hotel log book I read one guy's account of finishing the ride in just under 24 hours, which included an overnight stay en route, but could find no other sub-24 hour entries. We were unsuccessful in finding anything around town better than the usual crappy 100cc Chinese scooters. At least they appeared to start within the first minute most of the time, unlike our Enfields. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCfr9grcsjlIAmKbZKEprGYT57AXlfoiAhyphenhyphenn3mLcz7RoxEAPTIzvJ1GQkyvVNrTfsb10t_DQh61oHYO_QEOg-XqUxwMU-R-_wgHbfs-GO9s_HlDNiYjerjVU6d2X7qiAhyphenhyphen8VUaLfoJAfA/s1600-h/tha-khaek-019.jpg"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282986681364733298" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCfr9grcsjlIAmKbZKEprGYT57AXlfoiAhyphenhyphenn3mLcz7RoxEAPTIzvJ1GQkyvVNrTfsb10t_DQh61oHYO_QEOg-XqUxwMU-R-_wgHbfs-GO9s_HlDNiYjerjVU6d2X7qiAhyphenhyphen8VUaLfoJAfA/s200/tha-khaek-019.jpg" border="0" /></span></a>We attempted to get to sleep early, not an easy task with Laotian lounge music blaring from the bar down the road. </span><br /></div><br /><div><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">We set out just before 6 am with food, water, a pump, and a tool kit.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZRslo-JZ1ARFUaoNC2Sa5r9i80emwEorVghsbEM-C8YobsW7Lx0P4GrThPrOlfaRfLKo4e47HRWbAa0RnJF-qoW3BvvFmpCzR2ymCkoKHn7wLAAfCJtFAMPx_rN27fNiFe-tx-4zwzY/s1600-h/tha-khaek-056.jpg"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282987389225332866" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZRslo-JZ1ARFUaoNC2Sa5r9i80emwEorVghsbEM-C8YobsW7Lx0P4GrThPrOlfaRfLKo4e47HRWbAa0RnJF-qoW3BvvFmpCzR2ymCkoKHn7wLAAfCJtFAMPx_rN27fNiFe-tx-4zwzY/s200/tha-khaek-056.jpg" border="0" /></span></a> We had left our riding gear with the exception of our helmets at our hotel in Bangkok, so I donned multiple layers to stay warm. The sun was just rising over the karst towers as we left town. We made good time on the first ~40 km of paved roadway and graded dirt road. On the bumps our bikes rattled like the cheap plastic pieces of scrap they were. We made a brief detour through Ban <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg303EBraVNNqmvzwUU23JE_CfJr55PccpxcX6d7zcZvI2LHVRU_P9a8M_6VouvQVEzNiMHuOCx5A0veAZIxs-bjcvfKtAfd74ImnkJ5x2572rJhtzTRcXWEfebg83Yd8CCMsLKzjDYnWs/s1600-h/tha-khaek-057c.jpg"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282988764706191858" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg303EBraVNNqmvzwUU23JE_CfJr55PccpxcX6d7zcZvI2LHVRU_P9a8M_6VouvQVEzNiMHuOCx5A0veAZIxs-bjcvfKtAfd74ImnkJ5x2572rJhtzTRcXWEfebg83Yd8CCMsLKzjDYnWs/s200/tha-khaek-057c.jpg" border="0" /></span></a>Oudomsok after missing a turn. The next ~40 km held more dusty graded road. At one point we ended up behind a guy in civilian clothing sporting an AK-47. I decided not to try and pass. Thankfully he turned off after a few kilometers. </span><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPJ6naBAqHNp6V0OP01L8HSy4CBrlpU8VhQAJ1IAO90lF7wzMYeFVhzQduu8q16jlze7BdA0liMWL3YBs__8dOlS0iDPD25ePb3vcC_u9TB7OFvGz5yG5eUkccJxxRX0Ceslqrfpw0VPw/s1600-h/tha-khaek-059.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282990688595552338" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPJ6naBAqHNp6V0OP01L8HSy4CBrlpU8VhQAJ1IAO90lF7wzMYeFVhzQduu8q16jlze7BdA0liMWL3YBs__8dOlS0iDPD25ePb3vcC_u9TB7OFvGz5yG5eUkccJxxRX0Ceslqrfpw0VPw/s200/tha-khaek-059.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /><p><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">After the Ban Tha Long bridge we encountered a long line of trucks. Having recently attending Indian driving school we cruised to the front, hoping to squeeze through on <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj84QxiFp-MIRKM6Kjk-RLgpEwvMr4D3LoSPXVXIRJBWP7bY3g64Uh_gDmVttVxAbU2Dgg9YgkK8LWeRE00SNBiVdUb3lB2BzsCr_qo6nqCSMrb5OPs3s4krY1DI-TUUMqkVTkCKca3gZM/s1600-h/tha-khaek-080.jpg"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282989449621290034" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj84QxiFp-MIRKM6Kjk-RLgpEwvMr4D3LoSPXVXIRJBWP7bY3g64Uh_gDmVttVxAbU2Dgg9YgkK8LWeRE00SNBiVdUb3lB2BzsCr_qo6nqCSMrb5OPs3s4krY1DI-TUUMqkVTkCKca3gZM/s200/tha-khaek-080.jpg" border="0" /></span></a>the shoulder. A tree had fallen across the road and a road crew of ~5 people was busy clearing a path through the thick branches. Amazingly, there were at least 40 people on both sides standing around watching. I was timing our Loop attempt, so I decided to help out to get us moving again. Finally a few other bystanders pitched in and a path was cleared. This set us back by <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOXxY8DNhb_19-xdRaqjxosK_pP3TIzeDDcTZSexfDjiNG86QcmzB0CG0OYltMkChnfEUlOJfWsSkg6oIOZjBePC9Cau3n6_RiWwNZD0g5GOl1vR-nKByyH_4PWnI24GSGSoj-uwKDv5U/s1600-h/tha-khaek-072.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282993396722901410" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOXxY8DNhb_19-xdRaqjxosK_pP3TIzeDDcTZSexfDjiNG86QcmzB0CG0OYltMkChnfEUlOJfWsSkg6oIOZjBePC9Cau3n6_RiWwNZD0g5GOl1vR-nKByyH_4PWnI24GSGSoj-uwKDv5U/s200/tha-khaek-072.jpg" border="0" /></a>an hour. I tried to make up time on the next, more technical section of road and dumped my not so off-road machine twice, breaking off a mirror on the second spill. </span></p><p><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">Eventually we made it back onto the pavement around Lak Sao and I <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNwNuIRq-Fsg83nDuKGEIhyRXeXH8D3xlDt640tET5URH4I-_N5rGWMN2uCx01kgtUzRY6urtHfnNmD86Lly0DI2UrvBvjcz1D_667BnfgSaHuFUAc9mKP5I5pvSY0CeswJ1n4rmrI_9U/s1600-h/tha-khaek-134.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282992026730031746" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNwNuIRq-Fsg83nDuKGEIhyRXeXH8D3xlDt640tET5URH4I-_N5rGWMN2uCx01kgtUzRY6urtHfnNmD86Lly0DI2UrvBvjcz1D_667BnfgSaHuFUAc9mKP5I5pvSY0CeswJ1n4rmrI_9U/s200/tha-khaek-134.jpg" border="0" /></a>got replacement mirrors for 15,000 kip (~$1.75), including installation. It was ~1 pm and we knew we had 200 km to go, so unless we encountered some major construction of mechanical failure we would be back in Tha Khaek well before dark. The next section of road was spectacular as we wove through limestone towers dripping with lush vegetation. We wondered whether <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIEjJZqfqCtE70TVq4t-z3W9Vs3r-02NmtXWYlIHhkNj_CFa9g3ADjbb8t_IrpeG4_hbJqQUzOP-4lqGbdOZEVJSJ_Dqzdq1G2RNWPQxuvhSw3N3-0eo0FQnv3ZfmxRclO8imTyS93HgM/s1600-h/tha-khaek-136.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282994015154315234" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIEjJZqfqCtE70TVq4t-z3W9Vs3r-02NmtXWYlIHhkNj_CFa9g3ADjbb8t_IrpeG4_hbJqQUzOP-4lqGbdOZEVJSJ_Dqzdq1G2RNWPQxuvhSw3N3-0eo0FQnv3ZfmxRclO8imTyS93HgM/s200/tha-khaek-136.jpg" border="0" /></a>the huge limestone walls held any climbing route potential. The journey back went swiftly, or rather as swiftly as possible on our underpowered bikes which were lucky to hit 90 km/h on the downhills. Jascha had some difficulties in keeping up with me on a scooter made for 100 lb Asians, not 200+ lb Americans, but we rolled into the guesthouse <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIWG8tpd6pZrySffHxJE218boeNJFV1qRsV1RRTdBvAXaR9LFc-VXDY4wn4LXYV5HDPbV6RxPEpmxA7EX_cM1HrRdE6pxh_XXXxo7h9TR_3sb-XFhVfRfxO03_cos3Uw1EfOHLdwq0bR4/s1600-h/tha-khaek-150.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282994508625090354" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIWG8tpd6pZrySffHxJE218boeNJFV1qRsV1RRTdBvAXaR9LFc-VXDY4wn4LXYV5HDPbV6RxPEpmxA7EX_cM1HrRdE6pxh_XXXxo7h9TR_3sb-XFhVfRfxO03_cos3Uw1EfOHLdwq0bR4/s200/tha-khaek-150.jpg" border="0" /></a>together 9 hours and 48 minutes after we started. We headed to Fountain Square and treated ourselves to some well-earned nam kao (spicy sausage filled with ground pork, rice and glass noodles served with shredded cabbage, fresh herbs, and piquant dressing) and a crepe-like dessert made from a pan fried thin dough wrapped around a scrambled egg, topped with sweetened condensed milk and banana slices.</span></p></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-24294693843542696252008-12-15T00:00:00.000-08:002008-12-15T00:51:11.983-08:00cambodia's bloody past<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8HkrRTWLW1v_f5DhqBKVZQ4j-FRjr6NnDz1ejbYtZDLy8ezaPRSqmGGpcSSi9lROfEZsjppPsEdh6uMSS0EZEWe9-W2yREn8wnnO5eDUlZunJxqHk5_yxZyGaxadchZWN8ggimcxJcgw/s1600-h/phnom.penh-039.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8HkrRTWLW1v_f5DhqBKVZQ4j-FRjr6NnDz1ejbYtZDLy8ezaPRSqmGGpcSSi9lROfEZsjppPsEdh6uMSS0EZEWe9-W2yREn8wnnO5eDUlZunJxqHk5_yxZyGaxadchZWN8ggimcxJcgw/s200/phnom.penh-039.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5279923844986652418" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Today is our last full day in Cambodia and I must say that I am very much looking forward to being back in metropolitan Bangkok. We started off the day by visiting another huge market, Psha Thmey, otherwise known as the Central Market. The market contained everything from food and housewares to jewelry and clothing to motorcycle parts. From the great variety of food stalls we selected pan fried glutinous rice cakes with chives (similar to those we had in Bangkok). We also picked up a colorful tray of jellies, sticky rice with jack fruit, and some sort of sweet dough.<br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXVXlvs-NrcRbgazwVH3Wvo8ch75NdXsiTrCA9H6kf462gr1HtF2PKgKoWkQxXqqowEOooghJ4VHwY999Ek9hn3mSrZMOkwXVZ3rWI8OJysHhPX1f2Ei50Ypq_MgH8MzFA5rnmRc9u2lM/s1600-h/phnom.penh-034.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXVXlvs-NrcRbgazwVH3Wvo8ch75NdXsiTrCA9H6kf462gr1HtF2PKgKoWkQxXqqowEOooghJ4VHwY999Ek9hn3mSrZMOkwXVZ3rWI8OJysHhPX1f2Ei50Ypq_MgH8MzFA5rnmRc9u2lM/s200/phnom.penh-034.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5279931776483425634" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br /></span></span><br /><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Afterward we paid a visit to the Choeung Ek Genocide Center (a.k.a. The Killing Fields), a former longan orchard where 17,000+ men, women, and </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYD6mqZvdINkL-k65-qw7scmf7wNirRAC8kiHrAUGM3spev7qZia3EGnwR-tFU7GuVr1DZsmeV3xIIFa7vbx3DII1t27OwMPsSWb8GimL5FhJfCJx1P9IYXoeDJmZSLmh263rltXNc96M/s1600-h/phnom.penh-053.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYD6mqZvdINkL-k65-qw7scmf7wNirRAC8kiHrAUGM3spev7qZia3EGnwR-tFU7GuVr1DZsmeV3xIIFa7vbx3DII1t27OwMPsSWb8GimL5FhJfCJx1P9IYXoeDJmZSLmh263rltXNc96M/s200/phnom.penh-053.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5279934653009713842" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">children were executed by the Khmer Rouge after being accused of treachery. </span></span><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">The small area is littered with excavated mass graves, from which ~8,000 skulls have been collected and placed into a memorial stupa. </span></span><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Targets included Buddhist monks, Muslims, educated people, the handicapped, and ethnic Chinese, Laotians, and Vietnamese. Ironically, the leader of the Khmer Rouge, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pol_Pot" target="blank">Pol Pot</a>, attended technical school in France (although he was forced to return to </span></span><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Cambodia after failing his exams for 3 consecutive years) and was of both Chinese and Khmer </span></span><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">ancestry. To avoid "wasting bullets" prisoners were beaten to death with hoes and iron bars or buried alive. From 1975 to 1979 Pol Pot's regime </span></span><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">attempted </span></span><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">to transform the society into a fully agrarian state and </span></span><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">implemented strict food rationing. As a consequence </span></span><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">~26% of the Cambodian population died, mostly due to poor nutrition, overwork, and inadequate health care. The Vietnamese overthrew the Khmer Rouge government in 1979.<br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicGnnvcKUjFUwkIGExK9z9P36xGwNt_9y4BT2PyYJ4QnaGjGXc06O-RqjYb9HUjjYbr5CuF88NmZRAKXRUZoNJsh5gigdkGPlZvbYFm_Xa2-lFVqu7KjcdjcBMx15T-qW4Fd6jNnxfqkU/s1600-h/phnom.penh-030.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicGnnvcKUjFUwkIGExK9z9P36xGwNt_9y4BT2PyYJ4QnaGjGXc06O-RqjYb9HUjjYbr5CuF88NmZRAKXRUZoNJsh5gigdkGPlZvbYFm_Xa2-lFVqu7KjcdjcBMx15T-qW4Fd6jNnxfqkU/s200/phnom.penh-030.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5279935769358204802" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">On the way back we passed the building containing the hideous xmas light display (including an animated volcano shooting snowflakes) we saw the night before and whose name was was not visible in the dark. That's right, your tax dollars are hard at work to run the light show at the US Embassy.<br /></span></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-91750536368450445082008-12-14T05:56:00.000-08:002008-12-14T06:12:01.560-08:00the hunt is over<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4iFyjeoOhpU0rrBMAwOshTHgerTGvCJ-mQTi3P1bprg_o665QWXG29mwAQ30wtHfBmN1s1LWftVpG_RolgE-1MPtY0DDvY2s7t_HHGIPUwBw9Ryxv6WAS9Ri4fN-AGpp0Ht2Xa9dj3JI/s1600-h/babar.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4iFyjeoOhpU0rrBMAwOshTHgerTGvCJ-mQTi3P1bprg_o665QWXG29mwAQ30wtHfBmN1s1LWftVpG_RolgE-1MPtY0DDvY2s7t_HHGIPUwBw9Ryxv6WAS9Ri4fN-AGpp0Ht2Xa9dj3JI/s200/babar.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5279644857324967298" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">After days of fruitless searching and having to resort to Indian food, yogurt with muesli, and European style baked goods, we finally hit the Khmer food jackpot today at the food stalls next to Psha Toul Tom Poung (a.k.a. Russian Market) in Phnom Penh. We were pleased to find babar </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLDNqwhFsrd24vD1IGAjcDwmIiYxt_54g5CJ6gBY8bvYJn4HacypjasBrR44z0iB_R0_4PTRWd12HFjKn7XqeGKzWY4Di2YEBFexZm-GdrBU2Tl9ykY_ZQHOwLBqXAJ51xCRQMwTf2-ok/s1600-h/num.banh.xeo.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLDNqwhFsrd24vD1IGAjcDwmIiYxt_54g5CJ6gBY8bvYJn4HacypjasBrR44z0iB_R0_4PTRWd12HFjKn7XqeGKzWY4Di2YEBFexZm-GdrBU2Tl9ykY_ZQHOwLBqXAJ51xCRQMwTf2-ok/s200/num.banh.xeo.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5279646184468607986" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">(congee) and num banh xeo (rice pancakes) with bean sprouts and ground pork, along with excellent Vietnamese style iced coffee and the usual shaved ice treats. For once the savory items were not loaded with sugar. After </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">sampling a number of dishes I convinced Jascha to walk the 8 km back to our guest house to burn off some extra calories.<br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQY0b9NES4JcaEnAYh9VBQp76kkSMSVAN40eiPOR1rnlCn_dBzHws8VlF2DV41tVUn1HK-2FOiaTVASzuNldsXHW3Q_mATU5hkmQlFMO6PSrUsDIb10NVdlkWjJbkng_puGp5PyWtf64/s1600-h/phnom.penh-021.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQY0b9NES4JcaEnAYh9VBQp76kkSMSVAN40eiPOR1rnlCn_dBzHws8VlF2DV41tVUn1HK-2FOiaTVASzuNldsXHW3Q_mATU5hkmQlFMO6PSrUsDIb10NVdlkWjJbkng_puGp5PyWtf64/s200/phnom.penh-021.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5279647606375142546" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /></span></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-51255630427266131192008-12-11T21:26:00.000-08:002008-12-12T22:36:15.281-08:00angkor death march<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEYTyU8Mc_QMPR6E_-BwZUKWz3UFXlWrhBxOlMWubEnoDzs8i3uCf85hq4icxGoGt3lhNz0Q2Cbt8WUcpndKG9pWy4y9HmuNh0eBGjS7zHDSyfcj7SiRQ_mrY-VCmq9SdTW6-nCwXfbfA/s1600-h/siem.reap-044.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEYTyU8Mc_QMPR6E_-BwZUKWz3UFXlWrhBxOlMWubEnoDzs8i3uCf85hq4icxGoGt3lhNz0Q2Cbt8WUcpndKG9pWy4y9HmuNh0eBGjS7zHDSyfcj7SiRQ_mrY-VCmq9SdTW6-nCwXfbfA/s200/siem.reap-044.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278772223273450626" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >We came to Cambodia for pretty much the same reason everyone visits Cambodia, to see the ancient Khmer ruins north of Siem Reap. The day before the guesthouse guy told us there was no way we could walk there (even after I told him we did 20 mile walks for fun at home), and if we did there would be no available tuk-tuks should we decide to bail. His feeble efforts at pitching tuk-tuk services failed. We were willing to take our chances with not getting transportation back, as </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >I had checked the distances earlier and knew that at most we were looking at a 40 km day max</span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" > with minimal elevation gain.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00JGJApEv6JbvPtGNdlZysKV4ZEFGB7hyphenhyphenqavyWLvkUzvXGc2DDJnF7dbQ20n0263R-eXSiRbel_Ubdo2Nkmfx6SSl_ZCmVttbwWZlRAJVwsYSbg2UPcWHcPiplkwqnqAPf4DFvN2rf5M/s1600-h/siem.reap-019.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00JGJApEv6JbvPtGNdlZysKV4ZEFGB7hyphenhyphenqavyWLvkUzvXGc2DDJnF7dbQ20n0263R-eXSiRbel_Ubdo2Nkmfx6SSl_ZCmVttbwWZlRAJVwsYSbg2UPcWHcPiplkwqnqAPf4DFvN2rf5M/s200/siem.reap-019.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278772762948153106" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >After an espresso/bakery stop we set out at 8:00 am</span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >. We took a road that paralle</span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >led the highway and came </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >across one of the locals' markets, a pleasant change from the souvenir-laden tourist markets that dominate most of the town. After ~3 km we reached the entrance station where we paid our requisite $20 for a day's admission (the same price as a 7 day pass for Yosemite). I wouldn't have minded the hefty fee had a large percentage of it been allocated for the temple upkeep. I knew instead that ~90% would end up in the government coffers (or worse, officials' pockets). We continued down the dusty road for another </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >2 km past cleared mine fields until we reached the huge moat surrounding Angkor Wat.<br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiIz1HEDpqgGZgvIFym311imILwXpA9YaTZCOqq89brQ7CJQtoyfqYWk5q3frYTqaaNhbw54RiT6uII5QSLnaa2Z7RWYZsUP-ou7pxmlUoV7e2h722uLHQWlHm7yzzbEELsiNxKVJTzqU/s1600-h/siem.reap-036.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiIz1HEDpqgGZgvIFym311imILwXpA9YaTZCOqq89brQ7CJQtoyfqYWk5q3frYTqaaNhbw54RiT6uII5QSLnaa2Z7RWYZsUP-ou7pxmlUoV7e2h722uLHQWlHm7yzzbEELsiNxKVJTzqU/s200/siem.reap-036.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278773683622833778" border="0" /></a><br /><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >The temple entrance is on the west side of the complex, and as we neared it</span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" > we got a </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >glimpse of the hoards of tourists we would encounter along the way, most of which rode around in air </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >conditioned buses or tuk-tuks and were dropped off at each of th</span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >e temple entrances. The temple was well preserved considering it was </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >constructed from sandstone (supported by </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >some type of porous volcanic rock) in the mid 12th century, although the upper </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlp3sxedIzCi8UGpqTr7li1QuSIdCGDLUpjPBiZMABjPul53VXm14u4XkqmpxwHEybfcI_J2zgqUuhAMs8U2Be5esFNO7LrnkQKkUpgJk6yPhs2EAkhEuO8zSSTnyBeoN9Lm0R0TcfYw/s1600-h/siem.reap-064.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlp3sxedIzCi8UGpqTr7li1QuSIdCGDLUpjPBiZMABjPul53VXm14u4XkqmpxwHEybfcI_J2zgqUuhAMs8U2Be5esFNO7LrnkQKkUpgJk6yPhs2EAkhEuO8zSSTnyBeoN9Lm0R0TcfYw/s200/siem.reap-064.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278774224034444002" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >levels were under construction and off-limits. The temple was transformed from Hindu to Buddhist in conjunction with the conversion of King Jayavarman VII (responsible </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >for much of the secular and non-secular infrastructure at the time), and not surprisingly, much of the Hindu symbols were destroyed. Afterward we picked up excellent locally made mango and coconut sorbet and headed </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >down the road to the ancient city of Angkor Thom.<br /><br />At Angkor Thom we encountered the first of the massive gates, topped with giant heads.</span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" > Large scowling stone figures hold up the many headed serpent that makes up the railing of the bridge that crosses the moat. Within the walls of Angkor Thom we passed through the Prasat Bayon temple, </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEQgaxJRFKpw9XaBFzBzhRha0f-Yydgd0TXkHT57FAVdJ18C5UFcFBBfPxpV9MlMS7VoynLRErJSt1uAwpTqi9NUeJLSQkGKCpCnaZoNkJC-vUbnigGPPpqXYsgep4_HRnRY6dqyxBFc/s1600-h/siem.reap-085.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEQgaxJRFKpw9XaBFzBzhRha0f-Yydgd0TXkHT57FAVdJ18C5UFcFBBfPxpV9MlMS7VoynLRErJSt1uAwpTqi9NUeJLSQkGKCpCnaZoNkJC-vUbnigGPPpqXYsgep4_HRnRY6dqyxBFc/s200/siem.reap-085.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278775035257738786" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >which contained some of the best preserved carvings we found on our tour. The Terrace of the Elephants was easy to recognize with its elephant buttresses. We had higher hopes for the small Terrace of the Leper King. Legend holds </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >that at least two Cambodian kings suffered from leprosy; however, according to historians it is more likely that the statue that tops the t</span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >errace represents Yama, the god of death. Personally, I think the leper king story is much more intriguing.<br /><br /></span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >From Angkor Thom we continued northward to Preah Khan, originally a monastery dedicated </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFJk2Ynk0gN3GMElIPXSx2sSZHzjX7dlROqCdIT7AJ4eE9ECxkl7ZC9dmkdgS-7ds9bZ405fJLvVgtRMZMU52HgSWlHGckMoJ6DtSdHDPOdcG-qyTrb9NC8rWYhlWRHXGqxMLKkG3CLeo/s1600-h/siem.reap-107.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFJk2Ynk0gN3GMElIPXSx2sSZHzjX7dlROqCdIT7AJ4eE9ECxkl7ZC9dmkdgS-7ds9bZ405fJLvVgtRMZMU52HgSWlHGckMoJ6DtSdHDPOdcG-qyTrb9NC8rWYhlWRHXGqxMLKkG3CLeo/s200/siem.reap-107.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278777075998325138" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >to the father of Jayavarman VII. The Buddhist imagery was vandalized during the reintroduction of Hinduism in Cambodia. The vendors at the less visited temples were eager for tourist dollars and every tourist exiting the temple was greeted with a chorus of “Sir/Lady, I have cold water for you. Only $1”. Even tiny children were out in full force pushing post cards and trinkets. After the 20th sales pitch, I had to remind myself that the region is very economically depressed and the vast bulk of the locals' income comes from the tourist trade. From Preah Khan we had two options: a) continue on the 26 km grand loop back to the turn-off to Siem Reap or b) head back to Angkor Thom and do the 17 km mini loop. We decided </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >that the mini loop sounded more realistic given the remaining daylight hours.<br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7hfUp57TN9f2m5UtoCRAg0y8ePm5ZO_zy9Rh5m0WfGPB8-qCCWQ67PIkMa0wExgKkQE4oEAonpvNIpgenBXKhXfFkwl90zPU9Jcg_7bHhWWo_OTiCzQLEbyDhQTsaAPDdh0uKY69Hl6w/s1600-h/siem.reap-120.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7hfUp57TN9f2m5UtoCRAg0y8ePm5ZO_zy9Rh5m0WfGPB8-qCCWQ67PIkMa0wExgKkQE4oEAonpvNIpgenBXKhXfFkwl90zPU9Jcg_7bHhWWo_OTiCzQLEbyDhQTsaAPDdh0uKY69Hl6w/s200/siem.reap-120.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278776192365575250" border="0" /></a><br /><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >From Angkor Thom we left the city through the eastern Victory gate and </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >before long came across Ta Keo. Built in the late 10th/early 11th century in</span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" > dedication to the Hindu god Shiva, it is the first temple in the region to be constructed entirely of sandstone. Unlike the other temples we visited Ta Keo is unfinished. A steep staircase (bordering on Class 3 with its uneven, narrow </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >sandy ledges) led to the top of the highest tower. As we walked along the forested roads we were serenaded by the loud and strangely electronic-sounding drone of cicadas (I think), much like an alarm system. I couldn't imagine what it was like for the road maintenance workers to have to listen to that maddening noise all day long.<br /><br />We (stupidly) skipped Ta Prohm, not realizing it is the famous overgrown temple complex (although we got a taste </span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >of it at Preah Khan), and headed back toward Siem Reap, passing cow fields and tiny villages on the way. One of the local riding </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir5s5KVywQVBykX_I4_GrMjzJ7jLnIeGklf1MCR4oYMEZEzd4L_KMd2ZNltdoNja9Vn9WC1zkK2ubeRGlNlxvBB3JR0OJgufX3F4g4AjMOer7m2pzjkSTKHnM5Bu8zrXo0Cj1A-9ZaImo/s1600-h/siem.reap-122.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir5s5KVywQVBykX_I4_GrMjzJ7jLnIeGklf1MCR4oYMEZEzd4L_KMd2ZNltdoNja9Vn9WC1zkK2ubeRGlNlxvBB3JR0OJgufX3F4g4AjMOer7m2pzjkSTKHnM5Bu8zrXo0Cj1A-9ZaImo/s200/siem.reap-122.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278778831777221170" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >a motorcycle asked us why we were walking (we never saw anyone else walking the l</span><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >oop) and couldn't understand Jascha's answer of “for exercise”. At the turn-off for Siem Reap with darkness falling we decided that it was time to cave after 30+ km. We took a tuk-tuk back for the last 5 km.<br /><br /><br /><br /></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-32713110475743353372008-12-09T23:59:00.000-08:002008-12-11T04:00:16.155-08:00learning to like cambodia<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim4KFDo7_qVWmTGtaOzA7dWEIQGUE7R4vjo40YRBQGlpxB1Uw8-sIgeNh3Orq__LbmH_tlYW3BSB26INygtehwy-EE2flTbgb1S8_WAAKrxZ1aG1_eaiWPdj683Mpo4MXpS8NslztVTvM/s1600-h/bkk.1-064.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim4KFDo7_qVWmTGtaOzA7dWEIQGUE7R4vjo40YRBQGlpxB1Uw8-sIgeNh3Orq__LbmH_tlYW3BSB26INygtehwy-EE2flTbgb1S8_WAAKrxZ1aG1_eaiWPdj683Mpo4MXpS8NslztVTvM/s200/bkk.1-064.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278068732465361058" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Our flight from Suvarnabhumi to Phnom Penh went off without a hitch. There were no signs of the prior weeks' shutdown by thousands of anti-government protesters. Suvarnabhumi is a stunning test piece of modern architecture and we killed time by admiring the acres of elegantly curving glass and metal.<br /><br />We arrived in Phnom Penh and took a tuk-tuk to our guesthouse, run by a Paul, an Aussie expat of Cambodian heritage. Our </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">original plan was to rent dirt bikes and ride to Siem Reap, but we decided we needed a break from riding after our India adventures. We opted for the more conventional route of an express bus and </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">purchased tickets for the following day. Paul set us up at his friends' guesthouse for one night, as the one we had</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"> booked wasn't available until the date </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">we'd scheduled.</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;">Compared to the other Asia cities we've visited, Phnom Penh is tiny, the city limits being easily walkable. We set out in search of dinner, not thrilled with Paul's recommendation about a place called, “The Titanic”. He scoffed at us when we said that we would rather </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI9CSLcRoa_4oLm42oglEJGDaZ12yD3DEBlfP5tmOwRFiyOCg2e85At1wfSkj4ErZTfz_eavBfGK-2sPTnQzldilM0741GcOoXble7SyhaAtuKu4LLyQsm9M8uG-arSB68GZHi-ZWW95U/s1600-h/phnom.penh-001.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI9CSLcRoa_4oLm42oglEJGDaZ12yD3DEBlfP5tmOwRFiyOCg2e85At1wfSkj4ErZTfz_eavBfGK-2sPTnQzldilM0741GcOoXble7SyhaAtuKu4LLyQsm9M8uG-arSB68GZHi-ZWW95U/s200/phnom.penh-001.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278070708920930114" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">eat at the stalls and couldn't imagine it being any more than "dirty" than those we found in the tiny dusty Indian villages.<br /></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">We didn't see any stalls and ended up at a restaurant supposedly serving Khmer food. We ordered loc lac (a beef dish) and green chicken curry. Both were disappointing – largely devoid of spices – and my loc lac was hideously sweet. I left most of it. On the way back to the hotel we </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">found the night market and street stalls. Unlike Thailand they variety of food was small – mostly BBQ meats (heavy on the organ meats), fried noodles, and fried fish. I found a </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">sandwich cart serving something like a Cambodian version of banh mi and had to </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">investigate. I could have done without the sugary spread and </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYFrFH-pHsF0SHMfOriHfyZ70jXw2kiDO0mCbOBDKODgIAaTFSfVOFWamZ2ikWEfiCt3H0QWFjbJyxFkTt6zj1il4SSVWvUosK2eWWcvPD16EbUJzuI4xw-JbBVZqs9pcLP8ffem7Xy2s/s1600-h/phnom.penh-010.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYFrFH-pHsF0SHMfOriHfyZ70jXw2kiDO0mCbOBDKODgIAaTFSfVOFWamZ2ikWEfiCt3H0QWFjbJyxFkTt6zj1il4SSVWvUosK2eWWcvPD16EbUJzuI4xw-JbBVZqs9pcLP8ffem7Xy2s/s200/phnom.penh-010.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278071241331552082" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">fermented fish paste, but otherwise it was pretty good. The baguette was fresh and I didn't mind the processed meat of unknown origin. Past the BBQ stalls we found something even better – the shaved ice lady. I had green jelly with sticky rice topped with sweetened condensed milk.</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /><br />The next day we boarded the bus to Siem Reap. The entertainment alternated between dubbed Jackie Chan movies and Cambodian karaoke. ~2 hours into the trip the bus stopped at a large restaurant and we got our usual sandwiches (minus fish paste). The countryside was fairly flat with </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">large areas devoted to rice and lotus cultivation. An occasional cow or water buffalo appeared on the roadside. Many of the houses were built </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">on stilts, for flooding I suspect. I was surprised by the number of political parties advertised, no less than five. Every town showed allegiance to at least one. The Cambodian People's Party appeared to be the most popular, or at least the one </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJTH9n0UHI9UOAkzVwr2XOEu-xxZXd_LDOKEHJMM9PX1cUV-sIau1dG_QGsb4LgpOhKAPfk36uf9F_SpmUvhYXcYl7JSGbhPhlgOaXydy0dzeLKG1L_z0roNdupgNfmy_EcV_1x2W1hY0/s1600-h/siem.reap-004.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJTH9n0UHI9UOAkzVwr2XOEu-xxZXd_LDOKEHJMM9PX1cUV-sIau1dG_QGsb4LgpOhKAPfk36uf9F_SpmUvhYXcYl7JSGbhPhlgOaXydy0dzeLKG1L_z0roNdupgNfmy_EcV_1x2W1hY0/s200/siem.reap-004.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278072139421024930" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">with the most signs. </span> <span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /><br />We arrived in Siem Reap where our guest house had arranged a pick up. I had read that prior to 2000 Siem Reap was a sleepy agricultural town and largely a dirt bag backpacker's destination. With the international airport, air conditioned shopping malls and upscale hotels, it's difficult to believe. In contrast to our Phnom Penh location we easily found convenience and grocery stores stocking (for a hefty markup) the amenities we found in Bangkok. I had researched the food scene on the bu</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">s trip so we made our way to the Psar Chaa market area. There were the usual BBQ stalls and a series of </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix9mVL7HthT-1s95PlCc1YdYQOxZC8efyL8Fs_E04djCGPGm51ou8VhvH8oqFmM8PwHD0l1Rw2VlN7f2TnL29YUWWFcCjQXxghItHJPPXtiQwz9VsXthSxtKHCyj77E89S4tNu8BRncME/s1600-h/siem.reap-009.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix9mVL7HthT-1s95PlCc1YdYQOxZC8efyL8Fs_E04djCGPGm51ou8VhvH8oqFmM8PwHD0l1Rw2VlN7f2TnL29YUWWFcCjQXxghItHJPPXtiQwz9VsXthSxtKHCyj77E89S4tNu8BRncME/s200/siem.reap-009.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278078547320822290" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">identically menued and priced fried noodle places. I was able to get mine without sugar, but even with a ton of pepper sauce and the soy sauce I stashed in my bag from Thailand (in anticipation of finding only sweet sauces in Cambodia), my rice noodles were bland. Fortunately, we found a shaved ice stall to make up for it. There are enough historical sites between Phnom Penh and here to kill a solid two days (on our pace), but I'm starting to feel like I scheduled too much time in Cambodia. Hopefully, Angkor Wat will make up for it.</span> </span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-55865535817481011322008-12-07T03:08:00.000-08:002008-12-09T23:33:58.281-08:00bangkok 8<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju94y15rx8dCPOqOvbhGPG8v0g_LgkOyKsbsAhmc-4k6vuAI1RDHDUzsBLIxmqedL_tAGUrf8K8B6MXsepivEkuJCzmmcL2dIURQmhBboMC4wxu5VnoP-C-PAsLXfaq97ZcmQvSSKkdmQ/s1600-h/bkk.1-047.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju94y15rx8dCPOqOvbhGPG8v0g_LgkOyKsbsAhmc-4k6vuAI1RDHDUzsBLIxmqedL_tAGUrf8K8B6MXsepivEkuJCzmmcL2dIURQmhBboMC4wxu5VnoP-C-PAsLXfaq97ZcmQvSSKkdmQ/s200/bkk.1-047.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277003412243383826" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">For the past 8 days we've been exploring the bustling streets of Bangkok. It's been nice to be parked in one location for a while, especially in a place with excellent public transportation and street food. I am happy to report that I have been reunited with melon Fanta, which I have not seen since my visit to Japan circa 1983, and I have been taking full advantage of the som tam and grilled meat stalls.<br /><br />The original intent of the one week stay was to allow time to get a visa at the Myanmar embassy for our upcoming visit in January, but the rules have recently changed and visas are now valid for entry dates up 1 month in advance instead of 3. We will have to modify our itinerary to squeeze in a </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAT4xzXlhkF08XEoSQIDLRibzJ9GB5If_vrVGoQMk1OY5oZj8hFm21y1qS1w_3lkTxlD5UABBTvOBNdytTU4mPkXem5e8jmxK1VIWbEprgnkz5gOYcEupCxcIL0BXiYi1z-KTFlylOJ78/s1600-h/bkk.1-040.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAT4xzXlhkF08XEoSQIDLRibzJ9GB5If_vrVGoQMk1OY5oZj8hFm21y1qS1w_3lkTxlD5UABBTvOBNdytTU4mPkXem5e8jmxK1VIWbEprgnkz5gOYcEupCxcIL0BXiYi1z-KTFlylOJ78/s200/bkk.1-040.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277009921422181778" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">few extra days in Bangkok, but otherwise it's only a minor inconvenience.<br /><br /></span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">The markets here are incr</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">edible, sprawling on a scale I have never before experienced. In general goods are of a higher quality and greater variety than India, although there is still a lot of repetition between shops. Of note is the f</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">ound object sculptur</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">e shop in the Jatujak weekend market where various gears, spark plugs, rods, nuts,</span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz-bLcCFzllVy_DLeyywaACTKoGBZmDOVc61ciPwASBnQv8lnB3zAXkiquQkfa_O6tt8VaJgaCfJj-InPF7Urixx7NI-ESuYOFQK3b9ONzIa4YQ4tY4inqcySv34zEd3ca5nwWgvYTF7U/s1600-h/bkk.1-037.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz-bLcCFzllVy_DLeyywaACTKoGBZmDOVc61ciPwASBnQv8lnB3zAXkiquQkfa_O6tt8VaJgaCfJj-InPF7Urixx7NI-ESuYOFQK3b9ONzIa4YQ4tY4inqcySv34zEd3ca5nwWgvYTF7U/s200/bkk.1-037.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277007713684641410" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"> </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">and chains are MIG welded into mostly </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">detailed <span style="font-style: italic;">Alien</span>-themed designs.</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br />Additionally, we checked out the Corrections Museum (unfortunately, photography is prohibited), which contained </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">a variety of exhibits on torture and execution from medieval times to today. The most unique method was a rattan ball, </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">lar</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">ge enough only to accommodate a crouching man, that would be kicked around </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">by an elephant. Today execution is carried out by lethal injection.<br /><br />We also took the time to get suits and shirts tailored. The guy that runs the shop, Khavul, is </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">a second generation Bangkok Sikh, who was schooled in the </span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiB99gQBgxiFJKtbk5amJguXRRm6PwAiGzpnhc0zJWokHx4_wIR_lHP5eDrJH-NAtsJg48sTKWbYdcXedbbI1cQrH9a-wwddlOna0zNBbhrVx2qB3RZhI6NpMRYB6MxyLUz51a0VJPFxY/s1600-h/bkk.1-035.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiB99gQBgxiFJKtbk5amJguXRRm6PwAiGzpnhc0zJWokHx4_wIR_lHP5eDrJH-NAtsJg48sTKWbYdcXedbbI1cQrH9a-wwddlOna0zNBbhrVx2qB3RZhI6NpMRYB6MxyLUz51a0VJPFxY/s200/bkk.1-035.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277007561490551010" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Himalayan foothills of Uttar Pradesh. We went in 4 times for fittings to fine tune everything. He agreed to stash our stuff for another 2 months until our last stop in Bangkok.<br /><br />This morning we left our red light district hotel for the 1950's style <a href="http://www.theatlantahotelbangkok.com/" target="blank">Atlanta Hotel</a>, as recommended by <a href="http://ovtomatohead.blogspot.com/" target="blank">Tricia</a>. It has much more character than our former lodgings, although I miss the variety of street food vendors. After several weeks of chaos and uncertainty, it looks like things are on track for our flight tomorrow to Phnom Penh out of Suvarnabhumi.<br /><br /><br /></span></span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /></span></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-84786718208795076802008-12-07T02:38:00.000-08:002008-12-07T02:55:53.093-08:00india uncovered<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRgJkRPtgarrpKkog71N4v9kP3KempWQI10OtRwdDm5Oj4U9QaGjwbsKwHH0WW-GNeEouq0LJjWmy9vCrMhUGboGP79lFCUiHpN_eOG5GZZTUt57_qROTIssgZhEVtTAoXEkI_-GJlD5Q/s1600-h/51j97T7UvTL._SS500_.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 129px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRgJkRPtgarrpKkog71N4v9kP3KempWQI10OtRwdDm5Oj4U9QaGjwbsKwHH0WW-GNeEouq0LJjWmy9vCrMhUGboGP79lFCUiHpN_eOG5GZZTUt57_qROTIssgZhEVtTAoXEkI_-GJlD5Q/s200/51j97T7UvTL._SS500_.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276999529746332066" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">I selected Luce's <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2007/01/17/books/17grim.html" target="blank"><span style="font-style: italic;">In Spite of the Gods: the Strange Rise of Modern India</span></a> as a pithy companion for our travels through India. We witnessed first-hand much of the bureaucracy, poverty, hypocrisy, and chaos described by Luce (former Delhi-based reporter for the <span style="font-style: italic;">Financial Times</span>) in this well researched and well written book. </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">The choice could not have been better.</span></span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-37036448410792124102008-12-04T21:17:00.000-08:002008-12-04T22:24:10.126-08:00hello, sexy show?<span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276179069523321170" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJL267-1jqri3i1eqfb8z-l7fShcFF4HAyvnGEvN6F5_KQPUB9KSIIwhI9nlEb_Ryp6tO3_jAUFAFoiTF-2GlUxmN2Xt2m_zCwCRAT02gAghkCKFhlT2FjqCUbl0cpYjk6v3EUxT7TrGc/s200/ccu-004.jpg" border="0" />We spent our final time on the bikes searching for the Chakravorty (owner of India Bikes) home in a Kolkata suburb. Despite being a Sunday the Indian drivers were in as much of a rush as usual and we were looking forward to being rid of our two-wheeled burdens. On the way back we found a sweet shop serving the local treat, misti doi (sweetened milk curd) as well as payesh, which to me tasted like kheer (my favorite Indian dessert).<br /><br /></span><div><div><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOkj_8K8S6BLYZTiZ7AUbWsm2BdP27ADv2RaGAXKVi-iwurz6z5hFrFPCBDzCCy3ohQlKXNsb8p6OMjVifiwr0oGb1uaNurM6HgEchHv3gjfWMSZkmxcoh3dCTG1QdYCCqK9PdZSfgwmQ/s1600-h/ccu-002.jpg"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276180664495617730" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOkj_8K8S6BLYZTiZ7AUbWsm2BdP27ADv2RaGAXKVi-iwurz6z5hFrFPCBDzCCy3ohQlKXNsb8p6OMjVifiwr0oGb1uaNurM6HgEchHv3gjfWMSZkmxcoh3dCTG1QdYCCqK9PdZSfgwmQ/s200/ccu-002.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">The next day things were still looking iffy for opening of the Thailand's Suvarnabhumi International Airport by our scheduled flight date of 02 December, so the day before we paid a visit to the Jet Airways office. They told us that they had a special flight (the first since 25 Nov) arranged that afternoon to the naval airport in Utapao (~180 km from Bangkok), but after that they were uncertain of when they would next fly into Thailand. We decided to take the opportunity and after a kheer stop at a New Market tea house we went back to our hotel to pack. </span><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><br /></div></span><div><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"></span></div><div><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"></span> </div><div><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">We arrived at the airport 3 hours in advance as requested and stood in line with the mostly Thais, plus a handful of Indians and Westerners. We didn't have a confirmed seat (only a note scribbled on our e-ticket by the customer service agent), and we weren't completely confident that we would get one, but all worked out. After much anticipation the flight landed in Utapao at 10:15 pm to applause from the Thais. We weren't sure how we would get out of the airport, as the military base wasn't exactly set up for international arrivals and there were no official money changers or ATMs. I had no information on local hotels, so I figured our best bet was to get to Bangkok. The prepaid taxi stall was charging 3500+ bhat ($100+) to Bangkok and unlike Thai Airlines, our Indian-based airline wasn't providing free shuttles to the city. I found an outside taxi for 3000, who would let us stop at an ATM. We got an extra night at our already booked Bangkok hotel and arrived just </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZye3szWTFvlO5PYK18hdHGfllMevIcDSO5D_pVte2I62JELjw3iPPrO5tnplZz61xhdq5tS8lhMirl3lRiAmVyD1nr2x3t3qYxSa1jEr2dp8hO9f6DXR_K1v814nkl5uP4eXrzGCYnv4/s1600-h/bkk.1-017.jpg"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276181116951956994" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZye3szWTFvlO5PYK18hdHGfllMevIcDSO5D_pVte2I62JELjw3iPPrO5tnplZz61xhdq5tS8lhMirl3lRiAmVyD1nr2x3t3qYxSa1jEr2dp8hO9f6DXR_K1v814nkl5uP4eXrzGCYnv4/s200/bkk.1-017.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">before 2 am. People were still out and about in the street; we later found out that our guest house is close to the red light district (probably what are taxi driver meant by "bad part of town"). </span></div><br /><div><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">For our first day in Bangkok we headed over to Wat Po for a long overdue Thai massage at the massage school. We were amazed at the number and variety of food stalls on the short jaunt from our hotel to the Sky Train station. We started off with Thai iced </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjoWtB5VWUDX7Lyq7yiBTwrCX7Wu4qdYxtSAQ7iGk95ypJ1jJxhNRc4OEV_ri5B2MELMlypyny7zb0wuYYmY7OBye3RX6tTTLGQvkQ2sza4LO8MCJx5rQFfjoR7r0XoIeEho-fdWkWNHo/s1600-h/bkk.1-021.jpg"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276181350105254274" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjoWtB5VWUDX7Lyq7yiBTwrCX7Wu4qdYxtSAQ7iGk95ypJ1jJxhNRc4OEV_ri5B2MELMlypyny7zb0wuYYmY7OBye3RX6tTTLGQvkQ2sza4LO8MCJx5rQFfjoR7r0XoIeEho-fdWkWNHo/s200/bkk.1-021.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">coffee and chive dumplings made from glutinous rice flour. The Sky Train ends a few stops from our hotel<br />at the Central river boat station, from which you can catch a boat to numerous places along the river. At Wat Po we made a beeline for the massage school, figuring that we could catch the main attraction, the massive reclining Buddha, on the way out. Our one hour massages weren't quite up to par with Cathy and Lynn at Pho Siam in L.A., but they were still worthwhile. We checked out the giant shiny gold Buddha and watched as local artisans painstakingly restored the </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdWmVVqS5gqrV2i5gwbtX4KQ-yOKQ_CTLWmMCy9BWMCAPVtLQYkUPq3yWrmhm06pzngsR47WDZuwrJGjjd2mL8C8v8QmPsI9VD68FB3sX6650ZMbcEZBKFTevuvOxtIDFZIuBU-LIvd6s/s1600-h/bkk.1-028.jpg"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276182164174819330" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdWmVVqS5gqrV2i5gwbtX4KQ-yOKQ_CTLWmMCy9BWMCAPVtLQYkUPq3yWrmhm06pzngsR47WDZuwrJGjjd2mL8C8v8QmPsI9VD68FB3sX6650ZMbcEZBKFTevuvOxtIDFZIuBU-LIvd6s/s200/bkk.1-028.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">temple murals.<br /></span></div><br /><div><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">Instead of taking the boat back to the Central station we decided to walk through the maze of stalls that make up the Chinatown markets. The size of the clothing and fabric market alone dwarfed anything we had seen in India. With no aggressive touts or vendors the experience was far more pleasant. We found our way to a district selling a dizzying array of metal and machined parts, then on to the silver jewelry zone before </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-CMeIzpGN0YclWBPTXgSgqwXckfin7WWXqPEhw0Ac9Hpmn2QmVYWHq9oQ2v-uwDKWEeeL4env_40bXLKrxS8G5VvlBJez0sDZ4bDEOK4BANmARy_cPwvNxDddBsUIupDisbCTYsrlqzs/s1600-h/bkk.1-031.jpg"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5276182856571572338" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-CMeIzpGN0YclWBPTXgSgqwXckfin7WWXqPEhw0Ac9Hpmn2QmVYWHq9oQ2v-uwDKWEeeL4env_40bXLKrxS8G5VvlBJez0sDZ4bDEOK4BANmARy_cPwvNxDddBsUIupDisbCTYsrlqzs/s200/bkk.1-031.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">finally reaching the<br />station. The food stalls near the stop for our hotel had been replaced by stalls selling clothing, CD/DVDs and souvenirs. We returned to our hotel serenaded by a stereo blaring Bon Jovi's <em>Living on a Prayer</em>.</span></div></div></div></div></div>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-26795771766763809982008-12-03T17:57:00.000-08:002009-12-11T00:32:50.442-08:00india summary<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqfuhyphenhyphenXJVRMNwHqc-RPqLq0ytYFFooP9ROvIHs3ogY6VQBfBhUuLTqqYV-XrBXT-sICrOgElCba-d8UuLcaZSQaVSlLBHGp5fwtJprQO13RuuOMJokL7cU4fLNb8wZzFfQUFGSqj44pf8/s1600-h/kolkata_to_bakhtiyapur-007.jpg"></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6PuN8tFHZw08Ew4qX9LPfne4R7LcbVVBGfe1R2V4o1C4T5ZOkOWiEUcztSEkO3M2lFsEdzYHJ2HTpH57AWoaZ1_agMXM6n0b6ejutunP4Tf1EpXM38Bx4BkXbcIM1j0kVk7adN_L3XaU/s1600-h/kolkata_to_bakhtiyapur-034.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275750063469946786" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 200px; height: 150px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6PuN8tFHZw08Ew4qX9LPfne4R7LcbVVBGfe1R2V4o1C4T5ZOkOWiEUcztSEkO3M2lFsEdzYHJ2HTpH57AWoaZ1_agMXM6n0b6ejutunP4Tf1EpXM38Bx4BkXbcIM1j0kVk7adN_L3XaU/s200/kolkata_to_bakhtiyapur-034.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><ul><br /><li><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Distance logged by Enfield: </span><span style="font-family:verdana;">~2100 km</span></span></li><li><span style=";font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;" >Duration: 3 weeks<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPrrtVLlJ3mNGCklhpjvxaIWlqiUyAQxnBC6SXxl6iZTS0xs8lBal0ibha4HhXQu97Me9wdwzQoN2mp4af-UNrT5OjA1FMBj2nQ1REPT0Egj3FrFp1rWHHvGblzbAbtteLdHGhjzclCxg/s1600-h/darjeeling-035.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275749761797943090" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; float: right; width: 200px; height: 150px;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPrrtVLlJ3mNGCklhpjvxaIWlqiUyAQxnBC6SXxl6iZTS0xs8lBal0ibha4HhXQu97Me9wdwzQoN2mp4af-UNrT5OjA1FMBj2nQ1REPT0Egj3FrFp1rWHHvGblzbAbtteLdHGhjzclCxg/s200/darjeeling-035.jpg" border="0" /></a></span></li><li><span style=";font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;" >States: W Bengal, Jharkhand, Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, Sikkim</span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Major cities: Kolkata, Patna, Varanasi, Gangtok, Darjeeling</span></span></li><li><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Morbidities/Mortalities: 1 tire tube, 1 brake light, 1 pannier frame, 1 tube, 1 horn, 1 brake lever</span></span></li><li><span style=";font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;" >Police encounters: 2</span></li><li><span style=";font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;" >Number of potholes, cows, and diesel trucks: too many to count</span></li></ul><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLG093rqKmvNFgaggb6BKyiWQan7T2x-jOM9glZ0qlxHf9Fj1pP90E8mh1_cB6xd3Y2Q_UQzwOKLiO_rqwpdDK4gn8qcwWkWO2lNsxkj9Yo0XEQw7vCrgNqEDr1SPC5IhSHKhJBFm83-U/s1600-h/patna_to_varanasi-041.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275749596307014274" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left; width: 200px; height: 150px;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLG093rqKmvNFgaggb6BKyiWQan7T2x-jOM9glZ0qlxHf9Fj1pP90E8mh1_cB6xd3Y2Q_UQzwOKLiO_rqwpdDK4gn8qcwWkWO2lNsxkj9Yo0XEQw7vCrgNqEDr1SPC5IhSHKhJBFm83-U/s200/patna_to_varanasi-041.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /></div><br /><p></p></div>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-59666014532898799942008-12-03T17:38:00.000-08:002008-12-03T17:53:35.206-08:00close encounters with the law<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizK1ZF03-RfCJS3q-3G85xEgM66diyjjlJFGGlI61XPVT75U6rAXSjPTgqhp91TCoKXjXrzLmxr6_AaSSl43QfpzbpKxvYT91C7hU3j_k6uSTa5TJq3eBaL9lahF4Yfkm8kbG6nH-VRzY/s1600-h/darjeeling-035.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275743830402030674" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizK1ZF03-RfCJS3q-3G85xEgM66diyjjlJFGGlI61XPVT75U6rAXSjPTgqhp91TCoKXjXrzLmxr6_AaSSl43QfpzbpKxvYT91C7hU3j_k6uSTa5TJq3eBaL9lahF4Yfkm8kbG6nH-VRzY/s200/darjeeling-035.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">Sadly, the night before our departure from Darjeeling we found a food stall serving delightful egg buns, scrambled egg on toasted rolls with fresh vegetable garnish and topped with your choice of savory sauces. After 3+ weeks in India we both had finally succumbed to intestinal ailments and thought it wise to take a break from spicy and fried foods (not an easy task here). The egg buns were the perfect food. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuV1brpFq5jnojOszXZAEstTcL4iMD7M1uiWC9TPFzR3oFOfVC-yoHgQdwI2FDb2zzf1g81yVHn5qGil3HANq1_ogyHLNl4x3GhHDpf9z87tJQXMyCnNHZiE5BCgAIT64Y6TWq7JnnBmM/s1600-h/darjeeling-007.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275743954947386962" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuV1brpFq5jnojOszXZAEstTcL4iMD7M1uiWC9TPFzR3oFOfVC-yoHgQdwI2FDb2zzf1g81yVHn5qGil3HANq1_ogyHLNl4x3GhHDpf9z87tJQXMyCnNHZiE5BCgAIT64Y6TWq7JnnBmM/s200/darjeeling-007.jpg" border="0" /></a>As we were planning to get a late start in the morning to avoid a brutal kick-starting session we vowed to hit the egg bun stall again before we left.<br />The morning brought blue skies with wispy clouds that provided a lovely complement to the Himalayas. IMHO, those sorts of clouds always provide my favorite backdrop for alpine shots. We did our egg bun run, loaded up the bikes, then set about for the torture session of <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYbD93nMvfclQ4CxViAu-HsK_TItbtfFkZMxYFqNuCfhjOaxftHfRPm_-ZTDAYfKs-C_XBUjdg9zklZxccox17wDwkMP2XqUwdQlB-MuduihykVCa-BKy7bM1YxdsYPY_BB6bqMMAZVHI/s1600-h/darjeeling-037.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275744159228001250" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYbD93nMvfclQ4CxViAu-HsK_TItbtfFkZMxYFqNuCfhjOaxftHfRPm_-ZTDAYfKs-C_XBUjdg9zklZxccox17wDwkMP2XqUwdQlB-MuduihykVCa-BKy7bM1YxdsYPY_BB6bqMMAZVHI/s200/darjeeling-037.jpg" border="0" /></a>getting them started. Jascha's bike started up fairly soon, but we each spent ~5 minutes attempting to <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqcB_8qusDZVtNLnetipmsft97LG1f1w1jHggcYvpoHHsIgoe9Txv6U_o7MNRctnJ4-yA2eyZvdHTX8NXA3tW3N4EqMvcWJ0yFz9NwNcpTkbZjyEd8lRBw0Gp8gC39-E8-IHEFSCAUcJE/s1600-h/darjeeling-046.jpg"></a>kick start my bike. The guy at the guesthouse called his brother (who owns an Enfield) to assist, but by the time he arrived Jascha got the bike started.<br />The ride from Darjeeling to Siliguri travels down beautiful sweeping <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRcgAoIScR4A7CK3IJCxGI2LkNoLk_r0P8dMuwIkI-KYT6DhEf2yZrKPHSxpyakhoBzsAGV7ie5UMA3WF5EUumpADy3y4dydqyoRdzvnXlvLO6k6j-4PtW0oBnbVBB4-aZVqdb0iyUVZ4/s1600-h/darjeeling-044.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275744550096352786" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRcgAoIScR4A7CK3IJCxGI2LkNoLk_r0P8dMuwIkI-KYT6DhEf2yZrKPHSxpyakhoBzsAGV7ie5UMA3WF5EUumpADy3y4dydqyoRdzvnXlvLO6k6j-4PtW0oBnbVBB4-aZVqdb0iyUVZ4/s200/darjeeling-044.jpg" border="0" /></a>mountain roads, sections of which reminded me of my hometown in Washington state. Tiny villages cling to the sides of the hills, covered with giant yellow daisy bushes and wild poinsettia. We took our time to both enjoy the scenery and avoid getting slammed by a truck or SUV as we rode around the tight corners. At Siliguri we retraced our route through the tea plantations and across the plains to Malda.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZP9MhlyL3ERsfDduOR4zTYfEGuu4IucLNV5tdnWWaNp44JyQcFBlg9MqyJWWy_NlY337KngL_vE_Kkfw4b0xpteyLahX59mW9DBlo3Y2WHw-4LI6Yg-y0ojzQ754sGcmEDvALFDMBEY/s1600-h/darjeeling-046.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275744745144801186" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZP9MhlyL3ERsfDduOR4zTYfEGuu4IucLNV5tdnWWaNp44JyQcFBlg9MqyJWWy_NlY337KngL_vE_Kkfw4b0xpteyLahX59mW9DBlo3Y2WHw-4LI6Yg-y0ojzQ754sGcmEDvALFDMBEY/s200/darjeeling-046.jpg" border="0" /></a>In one of the towns we approached a red traffic light. Traffic laws are inconsistently enforced even with police officers manning the intersection, so we did our usual slow down and see what the locals do. The guy in front of me ran the light so I proceeded to do the same. I had to hesitate because there was a truck going the wrong way around the traffic circle in the center of the intersection (apparently perfectly OK). A police officer stepped out and demanded that I go sit in his office across the <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBiZVK4ur_oCnlTAh8nKMdqqDt2ryuII48Chq4NPmU3eJzRSFHL2B1uqIRqj0QwL84P5gW1RGLZBWKaBno0qz8juWViWZ4trQ8hsfRvq1pQ1NKE7kVzk3ZLu6X4c-0wnxy8ZK29mowOVM/s1600-h/darjeeling-032.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275745257690933090" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBiZVK4ur_oCnlTAh8nKMdqqDt2ryuII48Chq4NPmU3eJzRSFHL2B1uqIRqj0QwL84P5gW1RGLZBWKaBno0qz8juWViWZ4trQ8hsfRvq1pQ1NKE7kVzk3ZLu6X4c-0wnxy8ZK29mowOVM/s200/darjeeling-032.jpg" border="0" /></a>street. I was waiting to have to pay a bribe, but after thirty seconds he told me to leave. Moral of the story: if you're going to run a light in front of the police officers don't slow down.<br />Dusk came and we were still riding. We were growing weary of the endless game of chicken, made even more challenging with the nearly invisible bicyclists, livestock, and pedestrians and blinding headlights from the oncoming vehicles, many of which flash their brights to indicate they are passing. Instead of our previous hotel (with the musty blankets) we decided to check out the posher Golden Park Hotel & Resort on the outskirts of Malda. The snotty staff kept Jascha's driver's license for collateral even though he paid for the room cash up front, which was 1500 Rps (~$32), in other words not exactly the Oberoi. To compound things the hotel restaurant staff repeatedly acknowledged only Jascha, so I left before ordering. This was the only time I've experienced this in India and elsewhere only at the occasional U.S. auto parts store. The only upside to the hotel was centralized hot water. We had survived Darjeeling with bucket cold water, mostly because we were impatient about waiting for the guesthouse staff to boil water for us.<br />The next morning we got an early start for Kolkata and for once my bike started first. We stopped at a street stall in Murshidabad for a scrumptious breakfast of chai, puris and curry. The roads on this section are atrocious with deep rim tweaking potholes. Shortly afterward we hit the worst traffic jam we've experienced on the trip. There were trucks, taxis, and buses lined up for several kilometers in both directions. We wove in and out of the vehicles and on the shoulder, often directed by the locals. At one point a guy said something to me in Hindi, then reached down and adjusted my idle (par for the course here). Finally, we reached a point where the traffic was moving again in our direction. We never did figure out what caused the traffic jam, but we were happy to be on motorcycles.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhId_Y1NuNnUwO8KjagER-DgWbxlnTgOmaktmBHxMw5OmbwG8pc634msOdqwLdjoTcQRM9_qizqsskoCtZZLy6jgSnPw6-KbkezScAYeetVKDzR_oK-n-FcbhhjW84UBoLLjsppNU-NQEU/s1600-h/darjeeling-049.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275745648929313842" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhId_Y1NuNnUwO8KjagER-DgWbxlnTgOmaktmBHxMw5OmbwG8pc634msOdqwLdjoTcQRM9_qizqsskoCtZZLy6jgSnPw6-KbkezScAYeetVKDzR_oK-n-FcbhhjW84UBoLLjsppNU-NQEU/s200/darjeeling-049.jpg" border="0" /></a>We reached Kolkata before dusk, in time to enjoy the remarkably clear skies, a marked contrast from the smog belt we had ridden through starting south of Siliguri. I inadvertently ran another red light, but this time kept going. Jascha and another local followed me, and the police officer tried in vain to stop both with his (beating) cane. Theory confirmed. At another intersection another police officer stopped Jascha for no apparent reason and asked to see his license. Jascha told him that he would have to get it out of his backpack and the police officer told him to continue on. Before long we reached our hotel, showered, then braved the crowded streets for fruit, kesar pista kulfi, and south Indian fare.</span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3129222086933513866.post-90131327252465741002008-11-27T03:55:00.000-08:002008-11-27T04:20:15.736-08:00a world away, for now<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL55oW0k5EwDMzV00Ok_HlDkPJMErhWUcbXpti9XkolbVzCa3vQRDRGA5JeLP4szbZi3mp6ebgOokzSSWtqyJjyAfN4f7SRYguxL7bj3wZx5ZKzJHh3HqbehpaYrSEaa0w77AezjlMh-Q/s1600-h/darjeeling-055.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273307625070479234" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL55oW0k5EwDMzV00Ok_HlDkPJMErhWUcbXpti9XkolbVzCa3vQRDRGA5JeLP4szbZi3mp6ebgOokzSSWtqyJjyAfN4f7SRYguxL7bj3wZx5ZKzJHh3HqbehpaYrSEaa0w77AezjlMh-Q/s200/darjeeling-055.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">We called Hotel Broadway in Kolkata to see if we could arrive a day early. They remembered us as "the people on the motorcycles" and said that we could have our same spacious room again. Our current plan is to fly from Kolkata to Bangkok on 2 December, but after learning of the anti-government <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/7749550.stm" target="blank">protests</a> at the Bangkok international airport we will see what happens to our itinerary. We're also hoping that we aren't affected by the <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEharvpd4VNuRyLkUrTbmwvW1hMOcrKdBfstKvBjfsWlDpQKNFdokzuMXM-TvYzn0zjUSb-5pdVxpAdQaedWqnXwsu8x-QikCeMUqdfID-NeCqP3NNWqqL8Lh7G_R5yv4lsXDheoVelpGkk/s1600-h/darjeeling-050.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273305769762922706" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEharvpd4VNuRyLkUrTbmwvW1hMOcrKdBfstKvBjfsWlDpQKNFdokzuMXM-TvYzn0zjUSb-5pdVxpAdQaedWqnXwsu8x-QikCeMUqdfID-NeCqP3NNWqqL8Lh7G_R5yv4lsXDheoVelpGkk/s200/darjeeling-050.jpg" border="0" /></a>foreigner-targeted <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/7751876.stm" target="blank">violence</a> that recently shook Mumbai, but our primary concern for the next 2 days is safely dodging trucks, cars, SUVs, livestock, people, and potholes on our ~700 km journey back to Kolkata. All of this seems a world away in peaceful Darjeeling.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">We awoke to another amazing view of Kachendzonga and surrounding peaks and spent our last full day in Darjeeling visiting the Bhutia Basti Monastery. As with the Enchey Monastery in Gangtok the main temple area of Bhutia is currently under construction. Unlike Enchey, however, the walls of Bhutia <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVea9TBdmrmSIMlpmBSoz2Dy3BXkz6csUkecGKpNmGMDlMNHO7HnaytzMFCr1MuDuP27JE4WdjRK5Wd1G7frcjQ2GiaFNGoB927ThmP06KJwZsg3EshtgiyysbRpC61BVJI6ZBz4HgvUs/s1600-h/darjeeling-057.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273306027635084594" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 150px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 200px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVea9TBdmrmSIMlpmBSoz2Dy3BXkz6csUkecGKpNmGMDlMNHO7HnaytzMFCr1MuDuP27JE4WdjRK5Wd1G7frcjQ2GiaFNGoB927ThmP06KJwZsg3EshtgiyysbRpC61BVJI6ZBz4HgvUs/s200/darjeeling-057.jpg" border="0" /></a>were covered with elaborate colorful murals. As far as we could tell there weren't any monks onsite other than perhaps the temple caretaker.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">In the main town plaza local students from St. Robert's High School were participating in a relay hunger strike in support of a constitutional amendment to endorse the separation of "<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gorkhaland" target="blank">Gorkhaland</a>" from the state of West Bengal. The movement has widespread support among the town, with shopkeepers placing signs with Gorkhaland over the "W Bengal" text in their addresses. The <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAqqr2x5bjDLt18SQqORQB624gZYeLC0-4MyQgHtUaBXO0FRGncjUouYC8C_m4B73Z4cE2aMWIx8KnM1pVxeK3x6Lqd9rl6k_UXXTwoippbW8Yex5fFJ2BrQltbfAgZELSbSSVogVihN0/s1600-h/darjeeling-040.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273307320023793794" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 150px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAqqr2x5bjDLt18SQqORQB624gZYeLC0-4MyQgHtUaBXO0FRGncjUouYC8C_m4B73Z4cE2aMWIx8KnM1pVxeK3x6Lqd9rl6k_UXXTwoippbW8Yex5fFJ2BrQltbfAgZELSbSSVogVihN0/s200/darjeeling-040.jpg" border="0" /></a>justification for the secession is the cultural and financial disparity between the regions, the southern region of W Bengal having a much higher percentage of ethnic Indians and being significantly more destitute. I wish them luck.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;">Jascha adjusted my clutch lever to help keep my tendonitis in check, cleaned our air filters, and ran our engines for a while in hopes of an easier start in the chilly morning air.</span>michelle phttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01210253317743586125noreply@blogger.com0